[xeroshoes]

I know many people have talked about this, so pardon my redunancy after spending the last few hours reading posts.

I've had my Edelbrock SC for 2 years. I've used both the Edelbrock and Delicious tunes.

At first, I was getting a TON of problems. Lurching, stalling, DTCs up the wazoo.

I was sent 3 Actuators.

Most of the major things resolved (NOT after installing the last actuator, but... I don't know why).

In the last 18 months, I've been plagued with intermittent DTCs and the problems that go with them.

I've had things smoke tested. I've gotten a new battery. I've cleaned the MAF (more about that in a moment).

Edelbrock and Delicious have wiped their hands of this and say their product and/or tune are not the problem. (Edelbrock says that since I get the same issues with both tunes, that proves it's not the SC).

Here's the longer version of the craziness. I'm PRAYING someone can help, if for no reason than I may sell this car and would love it to be something I'm PROUD to sell.


If I reflash the ECU with either tune *or* simply clear the DTCs, the car will run fine and with no DTCs for some random period of time... a few days, a few weeks, sometimes a couple months.

After clearing the DTCs or reflashing, the car will idle steadily for a few days, then it will not hold an idle.

Most of the time it'll just vary between 600-900 RPM. Other times it'll spike to 1500 or so, or drop to 500, or even drop enough to stall. (that's my cue to reflash)

It's been a while, but there've been times where it takes 3 times to start the car without it idling low enough to stall.

Cleaning the MAF sensor will sometimes make the issues either temporarily go away or become less extreme (e.g. the RPM variability is reduced after cleaning the MAF sensor).

The DTCs will show up in two ways:
*Out of nowhere when simply stopping at a light or stop sign or even while driving
*After being at a complete stop and starting to drive, the car will "lurch" in first gear. That is, I put my foot on the accelerator, the car starts to move normally, then it loses power for about a second before having power again.

It *seems* that outside temperature changes may relate to when the DTCs turn on (in Colorado, it's not uncommon to have 40 degrees one day and 65 the next)

Sometimes, just the CEL comes on.

Other times, both the CEL and traction light come on

Sometimes, after both lights are on the traction light will spontaneously turn off (it did that today)

The codes I get are in the subject, but I don't get them all every time the BRZ throws codes. I get 2 or 3 of the P-codes (most recently, e.g. I did NOT get the "running rich" P0172), usually the C1201, and more infrequently the B14A1.

Occasionally I'll see the battery voltage bounce between ~12 and 14. I don't see any correlation between the voltage and what I'm doing (e.g. accelerating, braking, coasting, stopped). When that happens, I know it's 24-48 hours until the DTCs come on.


Again, ANY insight would be great.