Pulled the transmission in less than two hours, I've lost count of how many times I've had a transmission off a BRZ between this and my old Hyperblue - wtf indeed.
Clutch disk looks great and honestly I'd still run it
Pressure plate rivet broke
Threw some shrapnel through the bellhousing
Pressure plate deformed, moved a bit, and bent one of the dowels on the flywheel
Today I ordered:
* Supertech dual valve springs, retainers, and keepers
* OEM K24 rod bolts (ARP doesn't make K24 rod bolts)
* OEM K24 rear main seal
* OEM K20 flywheel bolts
* OEM K24Z side timing chain guides (already have the top one)
* OEM BRZ driveshaft and pressure plate bolts
* KTuned single piece thermostat to intake silicone hose
I hadn't intended to need to buy a flywheel, and I'm still not sure if I need to yet or not. Depends on if KPower will send me a replacement dowel or if I can get one machined.
After weighing it a bit today, there is roughly an hour of work to pull the motor at this point and they're only $1-1.2k. Price of dropping a valve or a rod bolt letting go is a motor, an $800 oil pan with unknown lead time, $400 in K20 oil pump / baffle, possible fire or other accessory damage, oiling down a track, and being out the cost of the event(s) plus travel costs.
The plan is to buy another K24A this weekend and swap every single accessory/cover/cams/chain/oil pump/etc from my motor over to it. Supertech valve train goes in it too since 'technically' the DC DICs are pretty tough on stock stuff, as well as opens me up to run something like a DC Endurance cam.
Really didn't need to do this but my initial plan was to slap the new rod bolts and Supertech into the current motor but then I was like the thing has to come out to do that anyway.
I'll re-ring the current block and put new OEM rod bolts into it then it is a good spare... or put rods / 12.5:1 pistons into it and send the head to 4Piston to be CNC'd.