Quote:
Originally Posted by Calum
The adjustable camber at the hub should be used to calibrate the camber adjustment at the camber plate. You set the camber plate to some arbitrary position, say 1 deg negative, and then put the car on an alignment hoist and adjust the camber via the hub until you actually have 1 deg negative camber.
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No not really.
At the upright you want to dial in as much camber as you can possibly get. Basically whenever you run out of adjustment or the tire hits the suspension.
Then, at the top mount, you want as little camber and as much caster as possible.
The reason for this is what's called the steering axis inclination (SAI). Basically, SAI is the angle of the strut - more camber at the top mount means more SAI. More SAI means more loss of camber as you turn the wheel, and is also can result in a greater roll center propagation. Adding camber with plates adds SAI. You want to try to avoid this.
Ideally what you will do is swap the plates left to right so they are at an angle. Max them out so they are as far back and inward as they can go, and then do your fine camber adjustment at the upright. On my car I have a set of whiteline com-c mounts and an ALK which give me a good amount more caster and a little more camber. Then to get the camber that I want I slotted the lower strut holes. From a geometry point of view it's the ideal way to do it.