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Always start with DTCs.
Not likely to be the immobilizer, those things don't just unprogram themselves. I've seen immos fall into theft mode after a certain number of tries with a bad or incorrect key, but if you had done that and had the immo light illuminated on the dash you'd tell us right?
The car is already at the dealer so I don't know how much help we can be, but since the trouble arose after you touched it, assume you broke it. Look up the wiring diagrams of every circuit you touched, ascertain what works and what doesn't work, eliminate causes accordingly. If everything checks out, return to normal diagnostic workflow for a crank no start. Start with confirming the computer's intention through live data: fuel pump enabled? Injection time? Ignition? If the ECM demonstrates a willingness to run, find out what keeps it from happening: what fuse is blown, what output isn't working, what circuit is open, what component is defective that isn't allowing the computer's intention to turn into action.
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