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wheelhaus · 06-01-2023, 07:13 PM

I tried these recently during a clutch job on my '13, and there was minimal difference vs OEM, I ended up putting OEM back in because these somehow felt a little harsh. These particular bushings are already pretty thin and have a tight fit, so they don't actually allow much movement, but they do help dampen vibration. What you're feeling as "slop" is most likely the whole tail end of the transmission wiggling around.
I would avoid these carrier bushings you've highlighted unless you already know they're trashed or you're really going after every last mm of movement. I had to spin the new bushings over a drill bit wrapped with sandpaper because they were way too tight. I couldn't even get the pins through. I also had to file the leading edges of the pins to help them go back in. FT86Speedfactory (aka FTspeed) has a video on YT for a clutch how-to, and it includes some tips on removing the carrier pins. Getting the bushings out will be tricky because there's very very little room. A dull flathead or body clip pry tool, and silicone grease will be your best friends if you insist on doing these. the linkage boot (35106F*B) is also a massive headache because it's SO tight. Stretching it over the joint and e-clip is maddening.

As an alternative, I'd recommend the following. They're also MUCH easier to install:

1- The rear carrier bushing (any aftermarket poly part that replaces 35036 in the diagram) makes a much more noticeable difference.
2- The rear trans mount poly bushing insert (aka space invader insert) makes a big difference in shifter movement as well, as it helps brace all the movement of the rear of the transmission.

Unfortunately my Exedy Stage 1 clutch and OEM flywheel decided to produce a really annoying gear rattle under decel around 3k, so I had to remove the inserts from the rear trans mount bushing and diff bushings and I miss them already, and some of the shifter slop has also returned.

Shifter springs are a great recommendation. I have the Mtech springs, and they definitely improve gear shift feel with more positive engagement with the detents. installation is really easy, just the angles are super awkward to get the bolts threaded back in.

I also installed a Raceseng weighted shift knob. The extra knob weight, plus the springs, makes for a really nice shifter feel. (Any weighted shift knob will do the same thing).

The other recommendation about steering rack bushings is also a nice improvement.

06-01-2023, 07:13 PM	#8
wheelhaus Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: 2013 BRZ, 2020 KTM Super Duke 1290R Location: Denver Posts: 1,788 Thanks: 714 Thanked 1,141 Times in 624 Posts Mentioned: 49 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	I tried these recently during a clutch job on my '13, and there was minimal difference vs OEM, I ended up putting OEM back in because these somehow felt a little harsh. These particular bushings are already pretty thin and have a tight fit, so they don't actually allow much movement, but they do help dampen vibration. What you're feeling as "slop" is most likely the whole tail end of the transmission wiggling around. I would avoid these carrier bushings you've highlighted unless you already know they're trashed or you're really going after every last mm of movement. I had to spin the new bushings over a drill bit wrapped with sandpaper because they were way too tight. I couldn't even get the pins through. I also had to file the leading edges of the pins to help them go back in. FT86Speedfactory (aka FTspeed) has a video on YT for a clutch how-to, and it includes some tips on removing the carrier pins. Getting the bushings out will be tricky because there's very very little room. A dull flathead or body clip pry tool, and silicone grease will be your best friends if you insist on doing these. the linkage boot (35106F*B) is also a massive headache because it's SO tight. Stretching it over the joint and e-clip is maddening. As an alternative, I'd recommend the following. They're also MUCH easier to install: 1- The rear carrier bushing (any aftermarket poly part that replaces 35036 in the diagram) makes a much more noticeable difference. 2- The rear trans mount poly bushing insert (aka space invader insert) makes a big difference in shifter movement as well, as it helps brace all the movement of the rear of the transmission. Unfortunately my Exedy Stage 1 clutch and OEM flywheel decided to produce a really annoying gear rattle under decel around 3k, so I had to remove the inserts from the rear trans mount bushing and diff bushings and I miss them already, and some of the shifter slop has also returned. Shifter springs are a great recommendation. I have the Mtech springs, and they definitely improve gear shift feel with more positive engagement with the detents. installation is really easy, just the angles are super awkward to get the bolts threaded back in. I also installed a Raceseng weighted shift knob. The extra knob weight, plus the springs, makes for a really nice shifter feel. (Any weighted shift knob will do the same thing). The other recommendation about steering rack bushings is also a nice improvement.