Quote:
Originally Posted by RedReplicant
I saw the EEPROM in there, no idea what is on it though. I assume it is what stores these Battery Voltage Lo, Speed Sig Invalid, etc flags that you can read out in Techstream. Agreed that the MOSFET setup / heat sink looks stout in the BRZ controller.
I've logged the 12v data from car since I'm on Haltech, it doesn't dip when the EPS cuts.
We've seen this happen with the older two wire motor Prius modules and the cut can be solved by soldering the shunt, but the newer three phase modules used by the BRZ/Lexus/etc don't have one onboard. I thought about just swapping the motor / controller from a Prius so I bought spare BRZ and Prius columns w/ controllers... The Prius motor doesn't bolt on due to slightly different flange bolt hole spacing and a different coupler style, which can be easily worked around (see the DCE kit, same same), the issue really becomes that the gear ratios between the BRZ (~18.5 motor turns to one shaft turn) and Prius (~15.25 motor turns to one shaft turn) column are different so the controller software would probably freak out with respect to assist provided / centering / etc.
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might have a go on reading the eeprom then.
well the voltage does not dip but ive learned that for engine swaps that VSC and PS are sensitive to it. On the stock system, the current draw sensor on the battery knows when too much current is bring pulled. ie, PS or VSC pump. Then the ECU request the alternator for higher current.
So from those older style drivers/motors their DC type with a H-bridge. They can do a good job but electronic wise, but 3 phase AC driving are typically better designs because you can get more torque from them for a given size
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TRS
The temp monitor is not monitoring the junction temp of the mosfets. only in the PCB. So unless you stick a bunch of thermal sensors in the box the temp test is kinda useless.
Is your car swapped?
But il be looking into this further then and so a full diagnosic read on the system then since it peaked my interest now.