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grippgoat dial back to -3F and -2R camber, you will sacrifice grip on track as well as get more outside edge wear but gain stability on freeway. I’ve been there before and I think this is the good aggressive/street compromise.
I’m currently at -4.3F and -2.5R and some toe out in front and similar rear toe. More caster won’t affect much imho, steering will feel a touch heavier and that’s about it. If you had less rear toe in I’d suggest that but you’ve already got quite a bit, that’s usually at fault for highway wandering in my experience. Zero toe front doesn’t usually result in bad street manners.
Some toe in front may help on center freeway stability, it’s been a long time since I tried that but I recall I thought it made the car a little numb in the corners. Changing wheel offsets and width won’t really help (I swap between oe and 17x9 regularly, tire makes a bigger difference), you’re just riding on the inside edge and thus more susceptible to road conditions, i can really really feel it turning on wet painted lines, the front will basically lose all traction for two or three inches while the rear end pushes you forward lol.
I’ve tried most combos of -1:-4F and -1:-3R camber and various toe settings, I really think you’re feeling the camber and at least without doing some incommon geometry stuff the easiest fix is to just dial it back. Good luck, welcome to tracking strut based suspension cars.
Edit: caster plates going from -6 to -7 made the steering feel a little heavier, I didn’t notice any performance gain or change in street manners. Data may show improvement, but the butt dyno couldn’t tell.
Edit2: I’ve found ride heights to have no impact on alignment needs, car feels better lower in my experience. Some people go up past -5 degrees, it’s just the nature of this suspension design.