About to load the car up for this weekend at Attessa / Podium Club CCW with NASA AZ but I figured I'd throw what I've done over the last couple weeks in here.
My friends guilted me in to having a set of rear calipers powder coated
Pulled my Setrab 25 row since oil temps weren't making it over 185f and some of the other people running kswaps competitively haven't found an oil cooler to be a requirement. Works for me - less weight, less complication, and fewer failure points.
Front end looking a bit empty
Molded in a sheet of ABS to block off the bumper opening for the oil cooler.
I also cut down my splitter so it doesn't extend out past the bumper edge on the sides to cut some weight/drag. You can see my cut line on the picture without the front bumper above.
The fuel line with the KSwap vibrates around a bunch with no support so I cut it back close to the metal shield and used one of the olive AN adapters. Please ignore how much I mangled the poor thing trying to get a wrench on it. I also put together a 6an line to the rail from the line with some heat sleeve over top.
I also decided to omit the flex fuel sensor since the car was not tuned for flex and I'd already gotten a question about what fuel my dyno was done on via a competitor after they looked over the car. Don't want the thought that I'm doing something shady to even cross someones mind.
My general feeling about the fuel change is that I don't like it at all - during the off season in a couple of months I intend to run a new AN line from the connection below the tank, use a bulkhead fitting in the engine bay, and another line from there to the rail. I'll also add a fuel pressure sensor.
I also tried another throttle body adapter that is designed to prevent DBW TB failure and bolt breakage, but the production metal part was too warped to seal properly, so that will have to wait.
For now I am running an o-ring style adapter from Ichiban Engineering in Thailand and I have my KPower adapter as a track back up.
The BRZ style throttle body plug sucks - the pins aren't held securely in place, it is super wide, and there is no where to anchor it to prevent it from moving while driving. I ended up cutting it off and pinning into a DTM6.
I drilled the throttle body to anchor the connector that plugs into it since the Bosch TBs are known for failure if the plug has play. I need to make a DTM connector mount to properly secure it but I don't have time for this weekend, it'll do for now.
Chuckwalla tire contingency winnings showed up too, so that is nice
I'm also switching to the Radium catch can that lives on the driver side of the car and a valve cover with a single vent on the top with stock baffling. Bought the can from another 86 person and I will be setting it up at the track tomorrow morning.
Projects for the off-season starting after May 20th include:
Redoing the fuel line
Removing the stock unused fuel lines
Adding remote mounted fuel pressure sensor
Moving the oil temp / pressure sensor to be remote mounted (yeah, temp will be off, but it won't really matter)
Brace intake manifold
Make AN lines for the two coolant lines under the intake manifold
Duct the front end of the car and seal the bumper better
Switching to a Koyo radiator neck
Heatshielding the header
Transmission cooler
New seat, window net, and harness for the driver side for NASA ST compliance
Remove steering column lock
Remove surge tank
CAE Shifter
Chiller System
Fix window regulators
Level splitter across the front
Brake master firewall brace
Lower rear 4 turns (6mm)
MFactory 6th gear
Raise rear of splitter
It is all about small, incremental improvements and seat time now.