Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultramaroon
This part is always the reason I hate having these conversations just as much IRL. Next time you have a chance, Reach behind your fork and squeeze all the hydraulic fluid out of the slave cylinder. That should clearly explain how the system automatically adjusts itself to clutch wear.
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You should lead with this next time. Don't worry about being so sensitive and just get to it and share your knowledge.
What you describe is a proper length spring in the slave cylinder behind the hydraulic push cup that sets adequate hold off of TOB bearing while simultaneously keeping the system tight enough so nothing drops out of the push pocket on the fork assembly. My jeep uses an external spring to keep the push pin and fork together to address this on the bellcrank assembly. My adjustable length push rod sets the TOB hold off gap. The spring keeps it all from falling off by holding it tightly together.
This is out of sight in the slave cylinder doing the same thing to keep the slave cylinder charged and the assembly adequately tight so the rod doesn't fall out of the clutch fork pocket. Same result, different means. But this is fixed, without adjustment. The "self adjustment" you profess is just that spring in the slave cylinder. I like the adjustable rod length better, it would have taken just a couple minutes to properly gap it with an adjustable length pushrod for this issue, but instead, it cost me over a grand to go back in and put a 28 dollar OEM fork back in it. Bright side, new oil seal while they were in there. Downside, in this case, is the Verus fork. If it was the clutch, I'd still have the same problem regarding the TOB hold off and clutch semi-engaged, and I don't.