Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifter X
Its flat faced.
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In that case it would be pretty simple to reconstruct. I don't have a Gen1 to test on so I don't have that part, but if I did I could probably build the 3D model.
What someone needs is to be able to take fairly accurate (within 0.1mm) measurements of the parts including the switches (both OEM and intended additional button/switch).
For FDM printing I imagine you'd want to go with a 2-part design - face for one and the "structure" on the back as a second part. That way you could take advantage of a textured build plate to get a nice finish on the face and still print the structure with the layer lines oriented for best strength.
SLA would naturally side-step that, but fewer people run that type of printer.
I've done similar stuff myself, it takes a bit of experience but not years and years. Fun fact: there are lots of instances where it's better to design something differently than the original piece because of the inherent differences between injection molding (which is how most OEM parts are made) and 3D printing. The key difference being that an injection molded part can't have geometry that would prevent it being removed from the mold, and 3D printing has to account for supporting overhangs and weakness in Z-axis stress points (if FDM).