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Old 06-29-2022, 10:01 AM   #16
grumpysnapper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNREAL View Post
High Eric it's still me [emoji2772][emoji28]

My SPAL fans are the same 30102029 fans mentioned here... I looked them up and found that each fan draws 14.5 Amps.

Now I'm almost sure that Mishimoto's shroud + wiring are the culprit of the low performance of the cooling system.

1- In a simple (for dummies) language would SPAL 30102029 perform better than the OEM or not? assuming I provide the needed Amperage and go back to oem shroud?

2- have you or anyone else fitted the mentioned Spal fans on oem shrouds?

3- do you still recommend the front duct?


Bear in mind that I have 0 issues while driving at Norma to highway speeds, the issue arises only at low, high traffic speeds and idling. And the heat climbs up an get stuck there, only goes down if I drive at highway speeds for a while.
If you are using the original Mishimoto wiring, the very first thing I would do is check that it has the correct polarity on its connections.
Very early on, before I changed to Spal, I fitted the Mishimoto kit, and had significant cooling issues... exactly like you.
Turned out one of the fans was wired incorrectly so was "blowing" rather than "sucking". The polarity on one of the connectors had been reveresed in production.
I believe this has happened to a couple of other people using the Mishimoto kit.

I have since changed to the biggest Spal units I could fit, using the orginal Mishimoto shroud BUT, modified with much bigger enlarged apertures for the larger fans. I use a shroud simply because my cooling issues are very high sustained revs at low road speeds. (the standard Mishimoto kit is adequate for slighly above normal usage, but not a lot more in my opinion).
I draw power/ground directly from the battery using heavy duty wiring and relays, amd simply use the old existing fan wiring to "trigger" the new relays.

Last edited by grumpysnapper; 06-29-2022 at 10:14 AM.
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