Quote:
Originally Posted by spcmafia
Reviving this thread after it just happened to me.
Basically every reported noise, in tandem, happened to me.
Noise when fully depressing the clutch, if I could describe it, it sounded like hydraulics actuating in high pressure mixed with grinding noise and goose honk. This are the steps that I took to pinpoint source of squeak.
1. Replace Clutch Fluid
2. Grease the Slave Cylinder pivot point.
3. Grease the Clutch fork (Remove slave cylinder without touching hydraulic lines, remove boot, feel for the pivot point and grease).
After the noise was somewhat reduced, one stayed, sounded like a bad door hinge or dry rubber being dragged across steel.
Here is the culprit
What you see above is the Master Cylinder Assembly which sits above the Gas Pedal. That rod contains a rubber seal I believe that can get dry, along with the rod, rub those together, and bam, goose honk noise. Either use a spray type of lubricant, or really get in there with Toyota recommended ( NICHIMOLY N-13).I went with Mobil-1 red grease.
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Update on this. Seems like I didn’t do a good bleed the first time and had some air in the system. It could also be that while I was waiting for the engine bay to cool down before I greased the clutch fork, I removed the slave cylinder. While this was happening I went inside the vehicle and started pressing the clutch to pin point if the noise was coming from somewhere else. During this, it is possible that the piston in the slave cylinder got some air, or it could be from the initial bleed.
Anyways, I went Harbor Freight and got this
$25 later and I was back home doing another bleed.
Here is what I found out.
1. Get your area ready. Lay some towels or rag underneath the bleed valve.
2. Put your vacuum system together. Instructions are pretty easy to follow.
3. Open bleed valve the most that you can.
4. Cover the bleed valve with the rubber cap that comes with the vacuum hose.
5. Pump vacuum hose to around 20inHg. No more than that.
6. With the rubber cap on the bleeder valve, and vacuum in place, grab the rubber cap and turn it, grabbing the bleeder valve at the same time to fully open the valve.
7. Cap on the master cylinder should be open for you to keep adding fluid.
8. If you lose vacuum, give it more. Your reservoir bottle should be filling up. Keep going until no more bubbles are present and straight fluid is moving thru your hoses.
9. Close bleeder valve.
10. Release vacuum pressure.
All this liquid came out with bubbles and dark. The master cylinder is now crystal clear and clutch pressure is optimal.
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