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I have done this repair...in the car.
From that experience I would highly recommend pulling the engine instead of doing it in the car.
Order all the required o-rings & seals beforehand, use the proper grey sealant, Subarubond, Hondabond, Ultra-Gray...they are all the same and made to adhere to aluminum.
As mentioned previously, the bolts are used in certain spots, keep them in order when removing them.
Removing the cover is...fun, even with all the bolts removed the sealant holds it tight, be sure to not mar up the sealing surface when pulling it off.
Once the cover is off, plug the oil drain passages to the oil pan with something (rags, etc.) to prevent gasket material from getting down into the oil pan when you are cleaning the surfaces.
Use plastic razor blades or an aluminum safe gasket remover along with brake clean to clean the surface. Don't use anything that will damage, score, cut into the aluminum or it will be much harder to get a good seal.
Also as mentioned previously, get 2, 4 to 6 inch long 8 x 1.25 threaded bolts and cut off the bolt heads. Hand screw them into the block at each top corner to help guide the cover on and keep it aligned.
Remove rags blocking oil pan drains
Remove oil pan drain plug
Spray brake clean through oil drains into oil pan to clean out any sealant residue.
Install all new o-rings
Apply sealant as per service manual (pics below) and then you have 5 minutes to complete the next steps:
1. Put timing cover in place
2. Reinstall bolts and torque to proper value
3. Remove the 2 cut off bolts you installed to align the cover, install those two bolts and torque to proper value.
4. Let cure
5. Have a beer.
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2020 GMC Canyon Denali Duramax, 2021 Forester Sport, 2000 Subaru Legacy B4 RSK 5MT (JDM Import) and random 86 chassis rebuilds....
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