Quote:
Originally Posted by MMoore4545
To answer some questions:
Main drawback is more complexity. More places to leak or fail. Perhaps longer warmup times depending on thermostat temp.
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Correct. You add an oil cooler because you NEED an oil cooler, not because racecar. Otherwise, like you said, more probability of an issue, and an unnecessary hole in your wallet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MMoore4545
I think vendors ship these with the wrong temp thermostat. Which is why some people have issues with warmup. 180F thermostats bypass fully at 180, and usually start to let oil through around 170 or sometimes even lower.
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Some yes.
Thermostatic valves do not close completely. This is done by design, so the oiling system can never be thermally shocked. So, on a streetcar cruising down the highway, even though the thermostat is not open, you can very easily overcool the oil. Thrashing on some local curvy roads on a 50° day you can do the same thing. Being outside of the oil's optimum temperature range is bad, too hot or cold.
With EJs, we always recommend running the highest thermostat you can get. That's typically in the 210-220° range. Not only will this reduce the probability of overcooling under some conditions, but it will also make the oil cooler more efficient when it's hot because of the higher delta from ambient to oil temp. Which means more precise oil temps; lower swings in peak temps.
The BRZ FA24 seems to run a bit hotter than the FA WRX, but not by a lot. The factory gauge is not precise at all, so we're stuck until after break-in when we can put it on the dyno and start load testing to know exactly what going on.