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Old 02-25-2022, 12:30 AM   #4
sato
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Garage
Also, add the engine's rear main seal replacement as a must (one of the second pic) when doing the clutch install. Also, wanted to further bump this thread with pics of replaced parts (don't mean to threadjack):

Quote:
Originally Posted by AT-JeffT View Post
Do not try to have your flywheel resurfaced. The FA20 has very tight tolerances for flywheel runout(1mm). Most shops will not be able to machine to these tolerances. New flywheels are cheap and have incredibly low tolerances (.001"). It kills me that a giant chunk of cast iron is a one time use item, but that's how it is.
Bought mine from Exedy (way cheaper than Toyota branded part and it is basically the same part) and had it balanced at machine shop. Mine had a tiny amount of weight removed although it was new. Also, it is extra insurance as "some" mechanics just leave the old component as is (maybe clean surface), not even resurfacing or balancing it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AT-JeffT View Post
Highly consider replacing the TOB retainer (Input shaft sleeve). If yours is chewed up it will cause premature wear on your new TOB.
Refer to first pic of my car's previous components after 150k miles of mostly granny shifting and highway driving:

- input shaft sleeve, where the throw-out bearing rides (first pic)
- throw-out bearing (TOB), initially replaced under warranty prior to 60k miles (third pic), which was BTW stuck (wouldn't rotate)
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