Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpysnapper
No I haven't , my thinking is that because
I dont want to run bonnet louvres, and I have a large alloy sump guard fitted I simply can't get the air out of the engine bay.
It's interesting when I have the car jacked up and running, how much better the flow is when the fans kick in when the sump guard is off...and how when it's bolted back on, you can hear the fans working harder, with much reduced flow past the guard.
I'm running a 16mm "T" connector immediately at the start of the heater inlet pipe at the top of the engine, which runs down to the pump, then on the return leg runs into another "T" just before the heater pipe return hits the water pump.
So effictively its a circut that bypasses the heater unit (but the heater can still operate if needed)
Yeah those heat sink coolers could be good, but its a super tight squeeze to even get 5/8" hose to the rear and back, and tucked in so it wont get hit by rocks etc.
I think you're right about the water mister, that could be my final play if I still have dramas.
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Ducting is still important. As you want the air coming through the grill to actually go through the radiator instead of around it. As I'm sure you can imagine, radiators are an air RESTRICTION and it would much rather go around then through.
Depending on your usage of the vehicle, you might be about to modify your cowl(windshield wiper surround) to allow air to escape up the windshield without modifying the hood itself. I'm not sure what affect that opening might have during daily driving. Cause your climate control air to be hot? The OEMs seal it up for a reason, but I couldn't tell you what it is. It's not uncommon for people to put risers under the back of the hood to achieve that gap. They seem to do ok. Modifying the cowl would be nearly invisible from the outside
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