Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashikabi
I'm not sure what the aftermarket looks like for those but I suspect you'll be spending much more than that too get your engine where you want it. Also the swap itself would be very expensive and difficult. An LS swap using off the shelf parts in an already well documented project costs about 10k minimum. I spent about $30k. The 1/2UG swap can certainly be done, you just need to understand what you're getting into.
Making the truck motor behave like the Camry motor will be tricky. You'll need a cam for sure. Intake manifold and headers will go a long way too. If you want it to spin to 8k you'll have to do now internal work which is going to cost a significant amount.
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Ashikabi, thank you for responding.
Yes, understood the logic/reasoning of an LS swap will likely give more bang for buck. Actually I'm about 70 to 80% complete on my current LS3 swap. Pretty happy with it so far!
I'm more looking at it from the angle of what is different, what is unique. I'm learning from the ls3 swap that I'm far more enjoying the creativity and problem solving and creating something that people say is impossible than necessarily just achieving the best bang for my buck.. Hell, if I wanted best bang for buck I'd probably just sell everything and get the new Nissan Z or Mustang. But that is not why I'm doing this. I'm not just trying to get power to weight ratio for certain dollar figure.
Also FYI, here in Queensland, Australia, we have a very "interesting" set of laws that state for naturally aspirated engine swaps you cannot exceed five times weight of the original car, in kilograms, in CC's of the new engine. For example I had to get my 86 weighed before I commenced my LS3 swap. It was 1280kg. Therefore 1280 x 5 = 6400 cc Max engine size. This is why I am using the 6.2 LS3 on my current swap.
For force fed, the rule is "3 times". So 1280 x 3 = 3840cc Max.
So as the 1GR/2GR family are in this 3.5 to 4L zone, this is another reason why I was thinking they could be a good candidate if I wish to go the force fed route.
The fact remains that assuming all other items will need to be done anyway (mounts, intake, exhaust, cooling, fuelling, integration and anything else) that there surely must be some elements that are common and some elements that are different between the 1GR and the 2GR, and how those things specifically differ and determine the characteristics of the engine being more truck, less car and vice versa.
I'm not approaching this from the angle of (like we see many times) the old "I've got 10k to spend, do you think I should do an engine swap?".
Understand on your comment of "internal work" but that is why I'm here asking the exact question. Are the bottom ends the same and it's the cylinders, heads and pistons that differ? Is it the cam or isn't it? Is it the valves? There could be many differences or we might actually be very surprised and find that it is actually only two or three things that need to be changed out and hey presto, truck suddenly becomes car and the rest is just the exhaust, intake, tune, injectors and anything else you regularly have to do in a good engine project anyway. Imagine if we found out it was just the cams and tune and absolutely every other part was common?
I guess I'm hoping someone who specifically knows these things about the 1GR & 2GR family might give a response with a laundry list of the actual, specific differences.
Thank you!