Quote:
Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86
Is your current battery a "maintenance-free", sealed design, or does it have the vented, removable caps?
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The caps don't appear removable to me but I have not tried prying at them to confirm. The car is reading 13.1 volts when I turn it off, and 13.0 an hour later (off). It is charging at 14.7 with all electrical gizmos off, and 14.3 with a/c, fan max, and headlights on. I think that is OK for this car, although a little higher than I typically see on most cars.
Quote:
Originally Posted by blsfrs
I think that you swapped out the wrong coil pack. Cylinders 1 and 3 are on the passenger side of a left hand drive vehicle. 2 and 4 are on the driver's side. I had an everstart battery that leaked acid. Change to an Optima red top.
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You are right. I mis-read which cylinder was throwing the dtc. Interestingly, it is the farthest from the battery. I suspect wiring at the back of the engine that was covered in liquid was 'shorting' causing the misfire.
This morning, the car started running on four cylinders again. I doused the passenger rear quadrant of the engine bay in baking soda and then hosed it off. The car then started running on three cylinders again but no new codes. Just P0302 and a general misfire code. I let it dry out and it started running on 4 cylinders again, and felt fine while cruising, but it felt weak under load at all rpms.
Over half an hour while driving it seemed to get stronger.
I wonder whether continued driving is drying out an important electric line at the back of the engine that is important for getting good spark at cyl. 2.
I also hope I did not do any damage to the catalytic converter driving 50 miles on the highway on 3 cylinders.