Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorMercyFlush
Ok, so I've been lurking here for about 9 months since I got my 86 and have a couple of questions I'm hoping someone can answer. This is the first car I've ever worked on after nearly 30 years of driving. I'm Australian and I've owned a UC Torana and 7 Holden Commodores and never felt the need to touch them myself. Never had the time among other things. This is the first time owning a car like this but Holden went tits up and I saw this and fell in love instantly. Moon Slate is a hell of a color. I'm not for lack of a better word, fucking retarded, I'm capable I just don't have specific knowledge. I've already replaced the headers and exhaust myself, changed out all the lights (except headlights because I can't decide) including opening and soldering the 4th brake light to make it behave the way I want. So I'm building some knowledge up and am really enjoying the experience.
I've reached the point where I've flashed a Stage 2+ tune (I have cat-less headers) and this is where I now have many questions but the first place to start is with this one.
I have an Australian Toyota 86 2017 GTS AT PP. It had one previous owner who was a middle aged woman and it was her company car. No one has messed around with it and it only had 20k on the odo. When I bought the openflash tablet I gave them the car info and unless I'm missing something it looks like that corresponds to cal id ZA1JK01I (MY2017 EU 6AT). When I hooked up the tablet it detects as ZA1JN00W (MY2018 EA 6AT), again unless I'm missing something that's not right.
Can anyone explain why that might be and if it is an issue I should be concerned about?
The second question is something I need to fix (?) pretty quick and any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I installed the cat back exhaust first (the headers hadn't arrived and I couldn't wait) and flashed a Stage 1 tune and noticed a behavior after my first long drive that afternoon. I had read here that you needed to put a few hundred km down after tune to get everything to even out. So after I tuned it and a couple of laps around the block to make sure it wasn't going to drop its guts I took it for 100km drive. Everything seemed good. On the first cold start it barked away as the cold start does but when I dropped in it into reverse after idling for maybe 10-15 seconds it instantly went to around 3000 rpm and I nearly shot down the driveway. My wife was standing right next to the engine and I'm still trying to clean the shit off the garage walls. After a couple of seconds it dropped to 800-1000 and was normal just as if it was fully warmed up.
I flashed back to stock and no drama, back to stage one, put some km on and the same behavior.
I put the headers on a few days ago and flashed stage 2+ and exactly the same thing but now when it revs like that the neighbors curtains start to twitch.
Thinking maybe despite my previous comment I was retarded and a few nuts and bolts had bested me, I took it to an exhaust shop but they said there was no problem as far as that goes.
I can't afford to always leave it warm up before I drive it, and now with the headers on she's a loud little beastie.
Am I just completely missing something? Am I retarded? Is this how my car is now?
cheers
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Its normal to see K01I as calid after oft tune as post 2017 auto tunes based on that calid regardless of original calid
The rpm jumping round between neutral/park and in gear is due to a couple of errors in the Maff Offset after start tables in oft tunes that cause that rpm variation when its in cold start sequence.
its easy fix
The OFT tunes are based on USA fuels, since out fuel 98 ron is not as good you tend to get a bit of knock issue and ECU drops advance multiplier to control knock. you can get better result with tune tailored for aussie fuel