Quote:
Originally Posted by mrg666
I agree that everyone's interests can be different and there seems to be some appeal for some drivers.
A couple things I need to add though. My modding experience was not such a challenging one.
- I installed the JRSC myself in one day and it wasn't hard at all. Nothing drilled or cut, I can just go back to stock with a single day's work. (I might have lost some parts since never thought about going back to stock)
- The parasitic power draw of the compressor is only significant at high rpm. Normal driving at low rpm does not even change the mpg.
- I have only added an oil cooler (JR dual radiator) for supporting mod. I have installed that myself too without any cutting/drilling. So cost wasn't high.
- Finally, it has been 40K miles, 4 years now. The only problem was valve springs replacement which is a common problem regardless FI.
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It might be a smaller more niche market but i think it could be a good stop gap between NA and FI.
I installed all my mods including my sprintex myself wasn’t too hard, and I encouraged anyone to try and install themselves, but many people aren’t like us in having the ability to do, possibly from time, tools, place, or knowledge.
Real FI setup obviously made more sense to us than this kit does, but we are willing to take the risk and do the work our selves to offset cost and it gives me at least peace of mind knowing it was done right and I can fix it myself later if something goes wrong.
Parasitic draw was not in reference to MPG but power per psi. 10hp per psi is a rough generalization, a turbo will have 1hp parasitic loss per 1 psi from heat/back pressure so 9-1, a SC will have 3hp loss per 1 psi from spinning the blower so 7-1. This kit should have zero loss. also no intercooler and piping so faster response and no additional pressure drop from the intercooler like those other kits have reducing efficiency. So even only 2 psi top end could add a decent amount of power. Also weight (I’m assuming this is pretty light in comparison) and weight placement if the battery box was in the trunk would be an additional advantage. Could take a solid NA 200whp setup to 220whp easily and push it over the top.
Personally like i said i think a true FI setup is better but we both know a lot of people are too scared to touch FI. this shouldn’t really add much risk as it’s not a ton of added power to the crank as it’s a very efficient way of making a little bit more power. Could be that little extra an NA setup was looking for.