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I slotted my factory strut to get the camber I wanted. It takes very little material removal to produce measurable camber change. I was only able to get around 2 degrees neg up front with camber bolts, so rather than double up or go with smaller diameter bolts, I just did a little measuring and math and only had to remove like 1/8" of material to get the camber I wanted (~2.9 degrees). Once you tighten the bolt, it's not like the strut is going to move around on the hub - the stress from hitting a pothole will just push the bolt against the end of the slot the same way it does against the factory hole. I've slotted the struts on just about every non-adjustable MacStrut front end car I've ever had. ZERO problems. Just be sure to get it re-aligned after reassembly again to fine tune with the existing adjustable bolt you already have. It isn't rocket science or even difficult to do...just get the math right. You might be surprised how small a change at the strut bolt translates at the wheel. Of course, I'm a little old school, and disappointed by how 'enthusiasts' these days are afraid to tackle anything that isn't 100% bolt-on...
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"To know a thing well, know it's limits. Only when pushed beyond its tolerances will true nature be seen." Amtal Rule
Last edited by venturaII; 10-23-2020 at 05:50 PM.
Reason: Because I'm a curmudgeon...
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