10-15-2020, 01:22 PM
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#45
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Undisputed El Presidente
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: Zenki 37J ZN6
Location: Stockton, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaXx
Heres what i would have you do
keep the bottom oem bolt in the bottom hole, and put the camber bolt up top and push the top of the wheel in.
I have learned a fair amount about how people run double digit camber. while we are idiots, we're not stupid. they ALWAYS anchor the bottom hole with the bottom oem bolt. you dont want 2 sketchy connections. people running big camber will get their adjustment from the top hole, either slotting inward, or in your case with a camber bolt, but the bottom hole is ALWAYS oem, that is the anchor that we dont mass with.(im not going to bring up FLCA in this thread)
i know some track people use a camber bolt in bottom and skinny crash bolt up top giving you adjustment from both holes but somehow they dont catch flack, realistically its fine, and so is slotted struts, but who am i.
many people do many different things, different bolts in different holes, but i recommend having the bottom be your anchor. hey, im not a fan of slotting struts either, thats why i got the onimade camber plates.
with the oem bottom bolt in the bottom hole, and an eccentric bolt up top, that will give you camber that is appropriate for the ability of most track enthusiasts.
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In 150k+ miles I have never had it slip with an upper crash bolt and lower eccentric bolt. I even have a slotted strut for like 100k of those miles. Many on here run the same setup with no ill effect. That doesnt mean they shouldnt be checked regularly. Multiple people have reported slipping eccentric bolts when put in a slotted or larger strut hole like you are suggesting.
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"Just like how a strut bar somehow enables you to corner 20MPH faster around a cloverleaf on-ramp, when the reality is, you can do it already but you just don't have to balls to do it." - CSG David
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