Quote:
Originally Posted by soundman98
but if you pull apart any random 2, 3, 4, or 5-way bookshelf/floorstanding speaker, the back will say something like "8 ohms nominal" and every driver will measure around 6-8 ohms.
the general rule of thumb is that it is always safe to go up in resistance, but it is not always safe to go lower in resistance. unless there is something from the mfg specifically stating that the amplifier is rated to work at the lower resistance rating.
i would run 16 ohm speakers if i could find a decent selection, but alas, 4, 6, and 8 ohm have become commonplace. generally, the higher the resistance, the more sensitive the speaker is going to be to more delicate sounds, which stands to reveal more detail in the music.
your radio's feature is the same as my pioneer 80prs' 'network mode'. you unfortunately can't use this mode without a lot more wiring work. it's how this thread has gotten to 50 posts! if using this mode in the future is a serious consideration for you, i would not go with the previous speakers i recommended-- network mode is specifically for installations that comply with the very-vanilla 'car audio install', where one installs an off-the-shelf component set consisting of a small tweeter, and a midrange, with an additional powered subwoofer. this car just isn't compatible with that setup out of the box, and would require re-wiring to be made compatible.
while there are technically 8 speakers in the car, the radio only ever 'sees' 4 speakers. it see's 2 front speakers, and 2 rear speakers
the dash tweeters and mids are connected directly to the 'front' radio output, and the amplifier that works the door speakers gets it's audio signal from the 'front' output of the radio as well.
and then the back 2 speakers are connected directly to the 'rear' output of the radio.
if you were to set your radio to 3-way mode, it would cut all of the bass from the 'front' output--the door speakers would do nothing, and you'd hear mostly just the cymbals of a drumset out of the dash speakers, it would also attempt to send the midbass to the 'rear' output(which the rear speakers can only sort of handle), and would require an additional subwoofer to handle the lower frequencies after that.
it's possible to re-wire the factory sound system to use the door speakers as a subwoofer, but the easiest way to do that would be to change the factory amplifier for an aftermarket model, and that amount of work quickly cascades into my typical recommendation of gutting the factory system for a nice set of aftermarket amplifiers to run all the speakers. and once all the speakers are on aftermarket amplifiers, changing modes, settings, or speaker styles becomes a lot more freeing.
|
I read your entire post, realizing I omitted a detail - I have a powered 8" sub running off one of the RCA outputs of the DDX918WS. Also my mods in the future will be to enhance the stock setup as best as I can, with speaker drop ins.
I do get what you're saying now. I'm just confused on which 'mode' I should be sticking to because neither of them seems to fit into our car's profile. The 2 way mode assumes there is a midrange and tweeter connected to the HU fronts whereas the rears can be anything depending on the configuration - but that it will turned off / faded out as I have no want for the rears anyway. Also in 2 way - there is no bandpass filter configurable.
In 3 way, all the outputs are 'funneled' thru three filters - low, bandpass and high in the HU so I can configure them 'individually' using the filters. I'm aware the stock speakers / amp already do some sort of filtering but I can at least influence the frequency within the filtered ranges, and also change the slope and gain.
At the moment now, '3 way' seems to be the better option but thoughts on this?
Also on those Dayton PS95-8 speakers - those speakers looks like they're meant to be used indoors, unlike a car's interior where you would have a wide range of temperatures, and the sun beating down on them - will they hold up in those sort of environments?
Quote:
Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86
That would be true if there were no passive filtering separating the frequencies to the tweeters and mid-range speakers underneath your dash grilles.
You have separates in the dash and although they are both 4-ohm drivers and indeed wired in parallel like you have discovered, the addition of crossovers in the circuit, i.e. the capacitors acting as a 6 db filter, make the sets act as a single 4-ohm speaker, and the head unit amp sees both as two 4-ohm loads. One right, one left.
Most factory head units, as well as almost all aftermarket units are not designed to run at 2-ohm loads and will get hot and eventually start distorting and cutting out as the volume is increased.
Coaxial speakers will also normally have capacitors mounted on the tweeters doing the exact same thing as what the capacitors in the separates are doing. And if you were to read the individual resistances of each driver of the coaxial speaker with an ohm meter, you would find that the readings are also approximately equal to each other, presenting a single-speaker load to the head unit approximately equal to the ohm-reading that you read of both the tweeter and mid-range drivers. It would not be half of what you read.
So what you basically will be doing is removing the factory tweeter from its spot next to the mid-range in the dash and adding another tweeter directly on top of a new mid-range driver that you are installing as a new set of coaxials.
Does this explain it a bit better for you?
P.S. I've never seen a set of two-ohm aftermarket coaxials. Not saying that they don't exist, I just haven't ever seen any.
|
That makes a lot better sense now, much appreciated. I was making an assumption of the loads based on the diagrams in the below link, under Parallel Wiring:
https://www.amplifiedparts.com/tech-...ing-and-wiring
Also, I've had always looked at coaxials as a single speaker... but it makes sense that in actuality, they are two speakers mounted together - never looked at it that way till now.