Quote:
Originally Posted by indio22
I read through some of the audio threads. I want to add a trunk subwoofer, but don't want a new head unit or take apart the dash at this time. In light of that, maybe someone can add insight to the below questions?:
1) I can tap into the audio signal wires coming to the stock rear amp, in order to provide a subwoofer with that same audio signal?
2) Is the above mentioned audio signal full spectrum at that point?
3) Is it better to ground the sub for the power return, or run a dedicated return line to the battery negative terminal?
4) How are people adding high-pass filtering to the door speakers after a sub install (since bass is no longer needed for the doors)?
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what@FR-S2GT86 said.
wanted to add one alternative to #4 though-- disconnect the door speakers. they are subwoofers, to the oem system, and adding a 'real' sub should be able to perform the same task more competently.
it's worth a shot- it wouldn't cost you anything additional!
in terms of #3, purists tend to want to overkill everything in an effort to reduce the reliance of outside materials (like relying on all of the metal body to get the ground signal back), but the cost of that is significantly more for marginal benefit. of importance here, voltage drop would then need to be calculated for both directions, with the ground wire needing to be further up-sized to compensate for the amplifier having to 'push' used power back to the battery. the common rule of thumb is to try to maintain a less than 12" ground wire length to the grounding point. personally, i try to keep under 3', but to each there own.