Quote:
Originally Posted by indio22
I read through some of the audio threads. I want to add a trunk subwoofer, but don't want a new head unit or take apart the dash at this time. In light of that, maybe someone can add insight to the below questions?:
1) I can tap into the audio signal wires coming to the stock rear amp, in order to provide a subwoofer with that same audio signal?
2) Is the above mentioned audio signal full spectrum at that point?
3) Is it better to ground the sub for the power return, or run a dedicated return line to the battery negative terminal?
4) How are people adding high-pass filtering to the door speakers after a sub install (since bass is no longer needed for the doors)?
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Answer 1) Yes, just make sure that your speaker wires' positive and negative leads are connected properly so that your subwoofer signals are in phase when you connect them up to your aftermarket amp to avoid signal cancellation.
Answer 2) On the input to the amp, you'll have a full spectrum audio signal. The output however, has never to my knowledge been tested for where the built-in low-pass crossover is set at, nor is it's slope value known.
Answer 3) Just ground your subwoofer amp to a bolt somewhere near the amp location. I used the bolt that holds down the OEM amplifier since it's no longer used in my setup.
Answer 4) Since I went all aftermarket, I'm using all active crossovers either built into my head units or built into the amplifiers. You may want to add some passive crossovers to the door speakers as a high-pass filter. In effect, you'll have a band-pass setup in your doors like I do, but in your case you'll have very little adjustment potential. You won't be able to adjust the low-pass setting at all built into the OEM amplifier, and you have to physically replace the passive high-pass crossovers every time you feel the need to make an adjustment. Just remember to design your passive crossovers for 2-ohm drivers.
Just letting you know what you're getting yourself into by trying to integrate existing factory equipment. It may be easier for you to install another amplifier to power the door speakers that has a band-pass crossover built into it. That way you'll have a much easier time making adjustments. Keep us informed of what you end up doing.
I think back now that I could have probably gotten away with removing the passive crossovers from my stock speakers and ran them all off of the active setup that I have now instead of replacing them all with aftermarket drivers. Hmmmm.......