Quote:
Originally Posted by daniloneil8
Would replacing the lug nuts with some premium brand like McGuard help to avoid the lug nut binding issue? I've only had one, and now use anti-seize, but don't want another one. Prefer not to replace the OEM studs, especially if they are not the cause.
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Short answer: Just going with a premium reputable brand (I'm looking at Muteki, McGard, Gorilla, and others right now) *might* be sufficient to avoid the nut/stud galling/stripping problem. Maybe... It's pretty inexpensive and of course super-easy installation, so I say give it a shot!
After my experience I think better studs by themselves are not sufficient, if you get aftermarket premium studs, also get known good lug nuts. This may seem obvious to some but for whatever reason it wasn't for me!
I got ARP studs before I did my first track day with the BRZ in Spring of 2017 and have just used the factory lug nuts. Getting ready for track event last month, when swapping brake pads out I had trouble removing one lug nut on the right rear :o Late afternoon before the event of course! Couldn't source an M12x1.25 tap for external threads, but borrowed a "clean-up" nut from local shop and bought new lug nuts (forget the brand but definitely not premium name-brand) from local PepBoys. No real problem with swapping race tires on/off a couple of times at the track, I think I caught it before significant damage to the stud.
Now with an event coming up in a week, I think it's time to order some "real" lug nuts though!
I always use a torque wrench, but the car does sometimes have wheels removed/replaced by trusted local shop.
But this has happened enough with these cars that "user error" doesn't cut it. Stock lug nuts and/or studs are marginal at best. I had thought known-good aftermarket studs would prevent issues, but clearly not in my case. It *could* be that premium lug nuts by themselves are sufficient.