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Zata · 08-01-2020, 08:43 PM

Backstory -- skip to next Dash line to get to point

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Shit happened, hydro-locked and seized engine courtesy of a SUV that plowed through very deep puddle that I was trying to drive around. I now am looking at getting a new short block put in the car and the old block to do whatever with. Initially, I was planning on rebuilding/upgrading the pulled sb as a learning experience and put back into or into another car. I've always wanted to play around with an engine like this but never had one that wasn't in a perfectly good functioning vehicle..that I used on a daily basis.

So after pulling the engine and seeing where the starting point is. Hopefully it's just the rods that are shot but was told to possibly expect crank and cylinder damage also. I only really only care about the crank since I want to bore it to 2.4L (maybe sleeve) and going forged rods anyway. Pricing things out I saw that getting a FA24 sb is outright cheaper than boring out and sleeving a FA20. ofc down the rabbit hole I go and currently stuck with a couple questions that I am finding exceedingly hard to answer with google searches. Probably because they are dumb but without any further ado.
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First question. (probably already guessed if the intro was read)

1. What's the difference between the FA20 and the FA24? I mean is the FA24 just a bored out FA20 or are there physical differences between the FA20F or FA20DIT that it is derived from?

2. Cylinder heads? Do I have to do anything with them if I go the bigger bore route? Are they like one size fits all or do they need to get work done to match?

There are more questions but they're the when you 'cross the bridge first' sort.

08-01-2020, 08:43 PM	#1
Zata Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2020 Drives: 2017 BRZ Location: The one very nice state that everyone loves to hate and a few locals don't help out with that prob. Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	FA20 vs FA24 Backstory -- skip to next Dash line to get to point ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Shit happened, hydro-locked and seized engine courtesy of a SUV that plowed through very deep puddle that I was trying to drive around. I now am looking at getting a new short block put in the car and the old block to do whatever with. Initially, I was planning on rebuilding/upgrading the pulled sb as a learning experience and put back into or into another car. I've always wanted to play around with an engine like this but never had one that wasn't in a perfectly good functioning vehicle..that I used on a daily basis. So after pulling the engine and seeing where the starting point is. Hopefully it's just the rods that are shot but was told to possibly expect crank and cylinder damage also. I only really only care about the crank since I want to bore it to 2.4L (maybe sleeve) and going forged rods anyway. Pricing things out I saw that getting a FA24 sb is outright cheaper than boring out and sleeving a FA20. ofc down the rabbit hole I go and currently stuck with a couple questions that I am finding exceedingly hard to answer with google searches. Probably because they are dumb but without any further ado. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ First question. (probably already guessed if the intro was read) 1. What's the difference between the FA20 and the FA24? I mean is the FA24 just a bored out FA20 or are there physical differences between the FA20F or FA20DIT that it is derived from? 2. Cylinder heads? Do I have to do anything with them if I go the bigger bore route? Are they like one size fits all or do they need to get work done to match? There are more questions but they're the when you 'cross the bridge first' sort.