[Z06ZN6]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

So first full day of my install. Taking my time. I'm impressed some of you can do this in 6 to 8 hours. I'm about a full day in and am probably less than half way done. But I'm taking my time and labeling everything as I go, also had a few things not go right that led to me taking a few detours.

I've tried now 3 days in a row to get a hold of Tony at Edlebrock, with no luck. They have less people working because of Covid and no one can answer supercharger questions except for him.

So here's my concerns so far:

When relocating my clutch banjo bolt, I foolishly didn't gave my torque wrench ready. But then realized I didn't gave a 1/4" 14mm socket for my inch lb. Torque wrench. So i went to get my other torque wrench. But that was locked in the trunk.... but couldn't open the trunk since the battery is disconnected.... tried to go through the back but my seats closed over the release strap. Tried to get in with the key but it didn't open. Tried the back seats again, no luck, lost a shoe, then finally got in the back with the key with the help of a pliers. Got the torque wrench and finally torqued it. But that entire time it wasn't as tight as I thought it was and leaked a bunch.

Reservoir is now empty, below min.

When I torqued the line, it rotated with the wrench. It is now at an angle, pointed to the front of the car. Part of me thought this is good, because it gives more clearance for the bleeder valve to release (because the gap between the heater hose and the clutch line makes it tough to rotate a wrench to bleed the clutch.

So my questions (hopefully someone here can help)

1. Will the angle its at now be ok clearance wise for the supercharger? See pics below.
2. Can you still bleed the clutch with the supercharger on, or do you need to remove it? If so that sucks.....
3. Any issues with the fact I let the fluid go down so low?

I have not bled it yet because I didn't have an 8mm wrench in my set. Doh!

4. Also, the fuel banjo fitting (that connects to the fuel pump) was impossible to torque with my torque wrench because of clearance. So I tightened by feel. Does that line easily leak if not torqued enough or should I be ok there? It felt pretty tight. Didn't want to over torque it though.

Be careful with the Edelbrock supplied crush washers on the fuel line banjo bolts. Others in this thread, including myself, have had small leaks with the supplied washers. The aluminum washer surfaces don't seem to seal well or crush much no matter how much you crank on it and can result in very fine leaks that are barely noticeable. I could feel a very light spray coming out of my install under the banjo and I have been doing brake banjos and similar without issue for 30 years. Never been a fan of solid aluminum crush washers. Some people have sanded them down a bit successfully but that wasnt for me. I replaced them immediately with used copper washers I had laying around and had no problem sealing at all with the same, good hand torque. I ordered and switched to the OEM seal (because OEM seals are usually the best) but I could have left the used copper ones in there indefinitely.
Yeah, I just used a box wrench to tighten them as its easier to access with. I gave them a good tighten. Been doing that for decades.

I'll let the MT people answer your MT fitment q's. If the resorvoir is below min, but you can still see fluid, your fine. Not sure what the 86 resorvoir config is but there is likely a hose under it with fluid in it too, so as long as you have a head of fluid above the cylinder you are fine. Once you drain below the cylinder, air gets in. If the resorvoir is dry and there's a hose underneath, try pinching it along the length to see if fluid comes up into the resorvoir.