ARP studs are stronger. But properly tightened by tools/at specs OE studs also should be more then sufficient to last reasonably long. So frequent stripping of OE ones imho is 99% fault of lazy tire or service shops (of course, if it's not oneself that did overtorquing).
Normally: 1) one should use powertools only for untorquing lugnuts and just quick torquing back without real "final" force, 2) good practice to clean thread before torquing back, 3) before using any other tools (including wrenches, not just powertools) to torque nuts back, hand tighten nuts few turns, which will ensure no cross-threading, 4) "end" torquing with dynamometric wrench if you have, if not, use from boot stock one from emergency kit, it's as long, that by it's "lever length" it tightens reasonably close to needed spec (of course, if one doesn't do "wonders" of stepping on wrench or putting tube to lengthen lever, to torque much stronger), 5) i wouldn't use antiseize, simple cleanup of threads should do in most cases. Anything that reduces friction, modifies with what torque one needs to torque nut to ensure same wheel-hub friction, by a lot (IIRC +25-30%), so one can either overtorque, or have less secure connection.
As for good quality shops that care about their job and customer satisfaction .. they usually do have dynamometric wrenches and use that to final tighten, even w/o reminding (though later won't hurt). One of signs, if you should go to that shop in future again, or maybe vote with wallet for other shop
