Quote:
Originally Posted by LimitedSlip
Okay guys, I'm not understanding this. Maybe we are nit-picking over technicalities, but there is a 12 volt DC supply circuit fused at 15 amps available at the factory amplifier location along with ground and speaker level input and output wiring. No, you should not try to run both the factory amp and an additional amp on that 15 amp circuit. No, you can't run a great honking sub-woofer amp on that 15 amp circuit. But, the Alpine KTP-445U (and similar units from other vendors) is rated at 45 watts x 4 channels or can be bridged for 90 watts x 2 channels all while requiring no more than a 15 amp 12 volt supply circuit. I'm guessing the factory amp produces something around 30 watts x 2. Going to 45 watts per channel on the doors really isn't an upgrade but 90 per channel would be noticeable. Or, how about getting a dual voice coil subwoofer and sending 45 x 2 to the doors and 45 x 2 to the subwoofer? The sub isn't going to be (obnoxiously) loud but it would certainly fill out the bottom end.
Would I do this myself? No, I ran 4 gauge from the battery to the sub amp in the trunk. But as long as the OP understands the limitations with this implementation I think it would work. Thoughts?
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you're right, the ktp-445u would connect to the existing power. but it's a ton of money and headache for an almost immeasurable performance difference.
there are no adapter harnesses for the factory amp connections, which means that every wire must be cut into, risking potential irreversible damage that would require a whole-vehicle body harness if anything got cut too short, or to re-connect the factory setup.
the ktp-445u will work at 90 watts rms bridged-- so it could potentially work for a sub with a ton of caveats. but it only contains high pass filters, which means that a line level converter must be used, as well as an external crossover. line level converters are non-powered, but most external crossovers are powered, which can potentially be powered by the same existing circuit, but leaves extremely limited headroom in the circuit, posing a potential issue to the sound cutting out and blowing the fuse, from enthusiastic turns of the volume knob.
so basically, to avoid wiring through the firewall, it's functionally possible, but one would end up rewiring half of the existing system, using a bunch of gear that has limited use for any other purpose-- a purpose that this setup would fill better on paper than reality, and end up costing roughly the same as it would to just simply run a power wire through the firewall to a proper amplifier setup.
and if i'm going to do all that work, jamming my big body into a trunk to do all those connections, it'd better be friggin worth it!