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Look, make it easy. do you have booster cables?
If yes, just put the black clamp on the engine block and the other black clamp directly on the battery negative, that's a simple test anyone can do, and a starter clicking on but not turning the engine over is a very good hint.
Cars typically don't have 5 things go wrong at once unless you drink 5 red bulls and start poking things with a screwdriver. The dash flickering was hint 1, you changed the battery and it stopped flickering, you touched or moved something, but the ground was still resistive, the starter was clicking on but not turning the engine over, that was hint 2, you started changing stuff willy nilly like the ignition switch and poking at the main body ECU which isn't involved in the starting system (according to the OEM wiring diagram in front of me now). 4 things going wrong at once is hint #12825 that you're on the wrong track.
That the dealer tried to throw parts at it is expected, it's a dealer, THEY SUCK SHIT at diagnostic, even more when it's caused by human intervention. You never EVER bring a car in for diagnostics at the dealer unless you know that poor helpless tech has a TSB or recall to steer him right, because without that, they throw parts at problem.
Oh, also, never check a strting system with a voltmeter. It's a high amp circuit, even a bad ground will show 12V on a voltmeter. The GOOD way to check high amp circuits is with a 55W headlight bulb as a test lamp. A bad frame ground on a GMC Savana won't let the fuel pump run, it happens all the time. a voltmeter will show 12V in the pump connector, a regular test light will light up bright as day, but the truck won't run. You have to load a circuit to find out the truth.
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