Quote:
Originally Posted by solidONE
@ soundman98 I noticed you recommended a much nicer looking crossover than what I have. It's beneficial for sound quality to have -12 db/octave between the crossover points? I'm sure there is a very good reason to go with a bulkier one over a simple capacitor. |
i recommended those boards simply because connecting a board is a little more professional than soldering and hot gluing capacitors to terminals that do a similar job.
a 12db crossover is going to have a sharper transition between drivers. generally, it's not much of a problem, but sometimes it's preferable to use a 6db crossover to blend the drivers tones better. i generally stick to 12db crossovers for most of what i do because it's steep enough, and i haven't had any significant issues doing so. but my first major build in high school used 6db crossovers because it was on a budget, and i had very few issues with that system...
but on the other side, my peerless 6.5" hds nomex's don't like crossovers at all. they're happiest with a fullrange signal. but i keep a 6db/oct filter at 50hz on them because it's stupid to try to allow them to reach any lower than 40hz at full tilt. because of the shorting rings, they will play a 30hz tone without distorting at otherwise insane levels--you feel the door shaking and the air moving, but there's almost no audible sound coming from them due to the physics of a too small of a cone moving too small of a distance to create the waveform.