Quote:
Originally Posted by bcj
Arcing across the cabin from left channel to right channel ...
woo
Only works when plugged into the 240V charging station though.
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i'd be lying if i said i hadn't considered teslacoil tweeters from time to time!
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UECWVlMTI3I[/ame]
Quote:
Originally Posted by solidONE
You think its a better option to go with something like this than this? Or would a headunit with these functions suffice? |
it looks like my past...
so i started off with a set of 5-1/4" pioneer REV-series components(TS-C130's). first car, first sound build, first job making any sort of money. i actually went into a car audio shop knowing nothing and told them to give me the best speakers they could for $300... in a convertible, driven by a "300 watt" obscure thrift store amp, through the passive crossovers like in your second link.
things went well until i was doing 60mph(lol) on the highway and tried turning it up. the tweeters distorted horribly. i dealt with it(and blew up 2 or 3 amps tinkering).
it wasn't until i installed the same component speakers into my 2nd car, and then started seriously chasing the gremlins that caused that distortion that i really looked into it further. at the time, i fully believed that it was a signal issue, so everything up to the passive crossovers was changed. new hu, new interconnects (monster audio zn6's instead of walmart versions even!) new amp power wire, different amps, and a 6v preamp on top of all of it to feed an overly-healthy signal into all the amps. it's safe to say i sort of went "thor's hammer" on the problem. and the distortion still persisted.
that was when i came to the realization that the issue was that the matching pioneer-supplied crossovers had too low of a tweeter crossover point. so the tweeters were attempting to play below their frequency range...
this conclusion brought me to purchasing your first link-- the clarion mcd360 3-way crossover, was somewhat new to the market.
i special-ordered it through a friend's friend that ran a small audio shop. 3-way networks were relatively new in the early 2000's outside of serious show rigs, so most places didn't even bother stocking such a product.
that was the point that i went full-active, specifically so i could adjust the tweeters crossover point to something higher than what the passive crossover had.
i was very happy with the clarion crossover. it did everything i needed it to with the frequency multiplier on the 1-2 channel. but it's a pain to adjust.
a typical adjustment session went like this: listen, get out, run around to trunk, adjust, run back, sit down, decide it's not enough of an adjustment, run back, etc, etc.
now i've moved on from the clarion crossover to head unit or bluetooth versions that do all that and more!
my car uses a pioneer 80prs and it's built-in crossover controls.
my pickup truck uses a pioneer 80prs that feeds a dayton dsp-408(with the bluetooth dongle so i use my phone to do what i want when i want from the listening position).
after that long path i took, i highly recommend starting with either the dayton dsp or the minidsp alternative. i specifically chose the dayton version because it was cheaper, and i really only needed/wanted the crossover and eq controls. there's been some debate here and there that the minidsp has a better sound, though some of it i believe is audio elitism (the religion that fundamentally, something cheaper cannot ever sound better than something more expensive)
dsp's are stupid-powerful, don't cost much more than the clarion crossover-only, and it gives you a ton of options well and above what most could ever need to tinker with later, which is exactly where i prefer my equipment to be-- where i'm not immediately using every available feature to their fullest extent.