Quote:
Originally Posted by solidONE
@ Griever423 dont worry about thread jack. I'm curious what advice soundman has on these as well.
The 3.5 point source drivers are rated at just 10W rms and 8ohms resistance, tho according to actual users they handle a lot more power (50rms) with very good results. I dont know about powering the door AND dash with 25w rms.. 25w at 4 ohms is roughly 12w at 8ohms. Divide that by 2 for the door speaker, now you have 6.25w to the daytons and 25w for the door's 2 ohm speaker. This does not sound like a recipe for good sound, but who knows? They still might be an improvement over stock. Try it and let us know!
I think these were designed to run in place of tweeters paired with woofers. I wonder how a small full range in place of tweeter in a 2-way speaker set up would sound hooked up to 100 watts. |
you're making too big a deal out of this
my daytons are ran off the 'front'(1/2) channel of an alpine pdx v9, a 5-channel amp rated at cea-rated 100x4, and 500x1 RMS.
what kills speakers is heat. plain and simple. many will say distortion kills speakers, but it's not entirely true. distortion is a leading symptom, but not a leading cause.. distortion is what happens when a driver is pushed past the mechanical and electrical limitations of any speaker, and the extra energy has to go somewhere, so it creates heat, and as a side effect, creates audible distortion.
speakers really only take what they need. as long as the physical attributes aren't exceeded by implementing proper crossover points, there's almost no risk of blowing out a speaker.
overall, wattage represents cone control-- the more watts, the better the amplifier can control and manipulate the speaker as it needs to produce the desired result, in this case, clean, undistorted sound.
it's no different than driving a 1200 hp car in traffic-- you're not using even half of that to move up with traffic, you just use as much as you need.