Quote:
Originally Posted by George Rosebush
Thanks for that link, although I'm not sure what the conclusion is?
|
265F is the danger zone as far as oil temp to oil pressure relationship on the FA20. After that, oil pressure drops quickly. The rest of the article seems to talk about the effectiveness of having more efficient radiators and where you pull the coolant from for an OEM style oil-to-water cooler
I have a Blitz Oil Cooler /w Thermostatic Plate. Most thermostats are set around 170F. Car doesn't have any problems coming up to temperature even during winter here where it can get into the mid 20 F's. Every time I've looked at the sensor, the Oil sits at between 180F to 190F post-cooler when the car is fully warmed up (which usually happens within 10 minutes of easy street driving). On the track on a 100F ambient day, post-cooler temperatures never went over 220F (don't have a pre-cooler sensor installed yet to get a reference). Before installing the oil cooler, I would consistently see 265F during the middle-of-winter (~50-60F highs ambient) on the track.
If you're ever worried about overcooling, you can just block-off the air-oil radiator (think something as simple as a sheet of cardboard). If you want to get fancy with plumbing, you can probably rig together a bypass with AN hardware. However, I don't think any of that is
necessary if the set-up you buy has a thermostat