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Old 12-11-2019, 09:45 AM   #8
86TOYO2k17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxr View Post
I am looking for advice from anyone that has already been through the process up upgrading a MY17+ PP car step by step as I am, for use as a daily and HPDE car. My philosophy has been to:
1) keep it as close to stock ride quality as possible
2) focus on seat time rather than cubic dollars spent
3) make small changes one at a time and learn from each of them

After about two dozen track days (over two years), I have RCE yellows, camber bolts, Apex 17x9 wheels (wheel and tire combo weigh the same as stock), and a Perrin oil cooler (30 degrees cooler oil temp across the board). Of course, I have gone through tires and brake pads, rotors, and fluid.

I have run stock tires, Firestone Indy 500's, and am now on R-S4s, so I think I am at the end of the tire upgrade route for now. I think the Hankook's are very good. I went through Carbotech XP10's and am on my second set of XP12's. Still on my first set of DBA rotors with no measurable wear. The brakes work great and do not fade, but pad wear has doubled as my lap times dropped (>10 seconds at Sebring). If there was an easy vent kit, I'd run it. I have the Porsche air deflectors.

So my next move is to try and dial out some of the understeer the car tends toward. I was thinking rear sway, but don't want to waste my money going way too hard. I want to balance the car and continue to work on lap times, not make a drift car! I am not sure what the effect of a Perrin 16mm vs 19mm would be, or the Whiteline 16mm vs 18mm I guess that first hand experience is what I am looking for. Both 16mm bars are supposed to be stiffer than stock at their lowest settings. I would have opted for camber plates first, but the tires already rub the spring perches ever so slightly (-1.7 deg camber with the Whiteline bolts).

I understand swapping to coilovers would be a shortcut, but I want to keep the stock dampers until they are actually worn out. They work really well and I cannot spend $2k on good coilovers right now.

What do you guys think?
did you put the camber bolt in the lower hole and the oem lower hole bolt in the top hole? I got -1.8 on RCE yellow but they said they could have done a lot more if i wanted.
What is your offset? if you are rubbing or close to it you will need camber adjustment at the top hats, but you could run up to a 4mm spacer and still have 8 1/2 turns on the lugs and that could add enough clearance for more camber from the bolts.
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