Quote:
Originally Posted by radroach
Early cars had a small issue with window pillar rust, salt water getting trapped between the seal. I think they fixed it by providing a little bit better insulation there. Easy to handle if you daub silicone grease down in there.
The underbody has a full rust coating from factory.
My control arms are rusty at 100k miles but not a problem considering that I'll probably be changing those parts by 150k miles.
The plastics and rubbers are holding well. I haven't lost any pieces or had any deteriorate in the 6-7 years I've had it sitting outside. There is some noticeable interior rattle when its cold and the glues aren't as compliant. And there are some issues with dashboards coming unstuck over the vents in the summer but its minor, I don't even care about that.
The body can be a different story. Thin panels that dent easily. Paint that requires very gentle care. Xpel film is a must to prevent rock chips. Also a windshield with "soft" glass that scratches easily.
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man, sounds a lot like my car, but with 50 extra horses to the other set of wheels. I have Protex clear bra on the whole front end of my car which helped a LOT in reducing the amount of paint destruction it would go through, but I want to learn how to apply it myself so I can just do the whole car and be done with it. I honestly see a huge benefit in wrapping 100% of the car in clear bra, especially in this day and age of absurdly thin paint and panels. There's no room to buff anything out anymore, so if you damage it, that's it. You either leave it, or respray it.
I think I'm looking for a 2017+ just for the shorter diff gearing and revised engine oiling upgrade (apparently?). I'll assume they cured any imperfections the early cars had.