[Tristor]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Holy shit, I think that's the first time I've seen a book time I can beat, and I don't have any power tools aside from a handheld impact to zip the lugs off and a mityvac brake bleeder.

Well, you're in California. Try beating the book time on it when you're doing rotor replacements in the upper Midwest. That shit is rusted on so badly sometimes it comes off in two pieces because you had to smack it so hard with a sledge that it cracks.

Originally Posted by GrantedTaken

I've already flushed the brake fluid with ATE
Brakes still not as hard as I prefer.

Can you explain what you mean by "not as hard as I prefer"? Generally speaking, pedal stiffness/travel is unaffected by rotor/pad wear or selection, it's entirely dependent on quality of bleed, biasing, master cylinder piston to caliper piston ratio, and pedal/master cylinder flex. My experience is that a MityVac is great for flushing to speed things up but it doesn't perfectly bleed, and nothing beats the outcome of the 2-person method. Usually I need 2 cycles of the bleeder after a MityVac to get things 100%.

Originally Posted by GrantedTaken

Thanks for first giving actual info before going into troll mode. Funny stuff.

I've owned several BMWs that I've done tons of maintenance on. E39, e46, etc.


While not a pro, I probably have more DIY experience and more tools than the average body kit ricer on this forum.

I wasn't trying to troll, I was being 100% serious. BMWs are very nice driving vehicles and if you lease with a service contract every single thing on the car is 100% covered during the lease period. BMW dealerships (except for the one in Austin :/ ) are typically very good about service, have nice facilities, and it's a way to completely eliminate frustrations or hidden costs involved in car ownership/maintenance.


There are plenty of ricers and fuccbois in this community, but there are also a lot of serious people. Most of the people who've responded to this thread fall into the latter category, and I doubt you have more experience wrenching than many of the people who are more regular on the forums, myself included. You see it as trolling, but it should be a signal that you're doing something absurd and should "check yourself before you wreck yourself". At the end of the day its your car and your money, but sometimes its better to listen to advice than to learn the hard way.

Originally Posted by GrantedTaken

So premium centric and stoptech are considered legit? They're not some cheap Chinese eBay AutoZone garbage? I mostly own German cars, so these other brands are new to me. Zimmerman, sebro, etc.

Yes, Centric / StopTech is the same company now, and they are very high quality braking products. The majority of people who do high performance driving (track, 86cup, autocross) with this platform on stock brakes use Centric / StopTech rotor blanks. There are other high quality options like DBA rotors as well, but they have a higher cost and diminishing returns especially for primarily street driving.


As you can see on RockAuto, there are other less expensive brands available and most of them would probably be fine, but like you, I don't trust their metallurgy. Centric Premiums are the gold standard for rotor replacements.