this is exactly what i'm talking about...
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Originally Posted by Pedro13
Personal Experience: Wash well the car before store it (of course), fill full the gas tank, add gas stabilizer, keep tires well inflated
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lol, i addressed all of this. washing the car is for the owner, not the car. dirt doesn't make a car run any more poorly, or make it start harder. it is personal pride.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro13
and if you keep it in your garage and weather permits (no new snow, no wet/salty roads) take it out for a couple of spins or at least try to turn on the car on your driveway for a few minutes (5-10 mins) if possible weekly or every other week. This helps to maintain ok your battery charge and avoid marks on your tires.
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and i addressed this. unless you're on track-only tires(which aren't supposed to be installed on a car in freezing temps), this is a non-issue for any legal street tire. they might have some flat spots, but they will clear up after a few miles once they get heat in them. if flat spots are still a serious personal concern, get these.
https://www.amazon.com/BUNKERWALL-Ti...GXTDQKBJGQR9KX
the 'run it for 5-10 minutes' is the past lingering. when cars had carbs, a lot of guys
had to do this, either because their carbs were out of adjustment, or needed rebuilding. running them for a short time span like that refreshed the fuel within and kept everything functional for a little longer.
these cars don't have carbs, therefore, all you're really doing is encouraging moisture to move around to new and expensive parts.
the 2 best solutions for battery maintenance are to either put the battery on a maintainer while installed in the car(generally the preferred method, only because it keeps the vehicle settings, and is less hassle). or the 2nd most preferred option is to remove the battery from the car and place it on a maintainer within the heated house-- as the battery chemistry is what is most affected by the cold weather. removing it from the car is a pain, but it removes the parasitic draw of the vehicle electronics, which can potentially extend battery life span. but realistically, the amount of time it extends battery life is marginal at best. again, option 2 is more of a 'do something to feel better' option.
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Originally Posted by Pedro13
Last, keep the parking brake off just leave it on "1st" (manual) or "P" (Auto) to avoid marks on your Rr disks. Regularly I put my baby out of the road by November  , when temp drops below 5 deg Celsius in my area. |
funny, i used to leave a work truck in 1st gear all the time. until it randomly dropped out of gear one day and rolled into the side of a semi truck, damaging $4500 worth of custom chrome.
use the parking brake. always use the parking brake. you can get a lot of brake parts for the lesson that cost me $4500.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro13
When you return the car on the road (April time approx.), change the motor oil right away.
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for dino oil, this is accurate. this is based on the typical 3 months/3k mile typical interval.
for synthetic, which all of these cars should be running, this is unnecessary. synthetic oil doesn't break down like that. if you want to prove me wrong, send it in for analysis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro13
This advice was given for a guy that is a car collector and so far after made this "procedure" on my "twin" for two years, has been working great...
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old time car collectors are notorious for doing things 'because that's how we've always done it' without ever questioning the use of updated technology, materials, or methods.
as a new generation, what is gained by furthering the older generations methods with car technology we don't own.
i prefer to respect the past, but question what has changed, and what is still necessary.
and in a few decades when we're all running nuclear fission cars, all of this will change again!