Quote:
Originally Posted by black.86
Thanks so much for your reply man.
I was reading up on the high beam issue last night.. so it seems that may not be the best route for DRL power unless its not a big deal?
I am looking at the beat sonic module now ( http://www.beatsonicusa.com/dlm2ep.html) do you have any advice/ideas for getting this setup to work with the headlight swap for 6pin harness and would the DRL wire still need external power?
Im almost tempted to do away with the DRL all together and get this https://led86.com.au/products/gts-br...ight-connector , but I also don't want to blind people if it is really that bright at night.
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If you follow the diagram in the thread I posted, you should be fine to use the LED as DRL. Basically you tap-off the High Beam Power and put it into LED+. Then, the LED will work as your DRL with like-OE functionality. You only need a diode in that scenario if you want to run an always-on module for dim night LED. If you're lazy, a straight-up tap through the resistor power will do the job. However, I prefer the method in the thread because I don't want to wear out my high beam actuator solenoid.
If you don't care about DRL and want dim LED at night only, you can get either the Diode Dynamics or Beatsonic module, and it's almost plug and play if you switch to or have an adapter to an 8pin connector (DD you can use out-of-box. Beatsonic you need to run one wire OR buy 2 modules).
The jumper you posted is a pretty clean solution. The price isn't bad considering how much the connectors cost on their own. I can't say for sure how they did the wiring, so even with the prebuilt jumper some work may be needed. This can be achieved with some simple tools if you require (just a screwdriver and small pick). Like you mentioned, I don't recommend running full power LED bar at night. I used to do that for a bit, and it is too bright for other drivers.
The LED+ always needs power from somewhere. That's how it runs, whether you use them like DRLs or not. You will always have to do some extra stuff on base model because the way power is routed is a little different on RS/Monogram models.
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I can go into more detail on how I did mine, but I'm going to save my breath for now unless you decide you really want to get into the weeds.