Quote:
Originally Posted by LerpK
I am about to tackle this job here in the next couple weeks. I see some people saying that jacking the engine up helps create more room, and others saying it didn't help. Does it help that much or doesn't it? Also, do the engine mounts need to be removed or loosened to jack the engine up, or just the few things already mentioned previously, like intake, alternator hard line, etc.?
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If you choose to raise the engine any appreciable amount, you will have to undo the single bolt from the mount to the frame on each side of the motor.
In my opinion, it is definitely not worth it to lift the engine for a simple plug change. I just did it for the second time and, if I can recall, these are the tools I used: short sockets (10, 12 mm), deep socket (14 mm), very short extension (~1 inch), short extension (2 inches), long-handled fine toothed ratchet (head as narrow as you can find - I like the narrow Craftsman ratchets), magnet on bendable/extendable stick (I use a Husky "penlight/magnet" combo tool I found at Home Depot), and a small mirror of some variety.
You will have the most trouble pulling the #4 plug (driver's rear) as the frame is very tight and you have to disassemble your tools to get the deepwell 14 mm socket out. Strong fingers will help you. Or you can use a set of long-handled pliers to grip the extension while blocking the socket from leaving the plug hole.
You will be in great pain while removing the #2 plug (driver's front) as the HPFP assembly above it is sharp and hate-filled. It will cut you. You will bleed all over your fuel lines. You will contemplate selling your car.
In terms of access, you will need to remove two things, the injector ECU on the passenger side and the HPFP heat shield on the driver's side. For the ECU, don't unplug it, you'll regret it. Just twist the ECU towards the floor and stuff it next to the battery. This will limit the amount of tension you put on the harness. For the heat shield, it's two 12 mm bolts - use a magnet to control the rear bolt as it is way down on the block and easy to drop. It is very heavy and very sharp and will damage harnesses and paint. Carefully maneuver it back towards the firewall under the left chassis brace and then pull it up on the front side to clear the fuel lines. Then carefully extract it towards the front at a 45 degree angle.
Good luck and God speed. If only Subaru had cut a couple access holes in the frame to allow direct access via the wheel wells....