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Originally Posted by Bach415
I am speaking from both experience and guides. I have installed both my BRZ and JDM headlights myself. The only thing is that I only did the DRL for the BRZ boomerang for a bit (wasn't my thing to have DRL running) but did not do it for my JDM headlights. Did not recall if the BRZ headlights had issue with the high beam actuator as DRL was removed shortly after install (DRL resistor plugged back in but DRL setting turned off in techstream). BRZ headlights should be similar to the monograms as they utilize 6 pins (Not including the 7th one for turn signal).
Now I am trying to think of the possible issue. The more I think about it, the more I feel like you are onto something about tapping the DRL live wire for the monograms/10 series/rs/maybe BRZs. The JDM ones have both a dedicated 12V 3.3W wire for max brightness on DRL, but when going to parking/low beam/high beam, it switches to the dedicated 12V 0.5W for lower brightness (from parking 12V wire) where as the monograms only have one wire for the LED which pushes it at full 12V 3.3W when tapped to the DRL live wire during day mode but getting the 12V 0.5W for lower brightness from the parking 12V during parking/low beam mode.
Again, just to make sure I am on the correct page now, when you go from DRL to parking mode/low beam (stalk option 0 = day mode/DRL, option 1 = night mode/parking mode, option 2 = night mode/parking mode w/ low beams on), it causes the high beam to flash/actuate. If so, then my thoughts are below. If not, please correct.
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Not quite. The HiBeam flap is actually always actuated when the DRL is on using the "Resistor Tap" method. I verified by shining a flashlight into the projector while a friend toggled the parking brake. The flap moves as the DRL LED Bar is turning on and off in Option 0 (Day Mode) in unison with the parking brake.
In "Resistor Tap" method, the LED Bar is also running in DRL mode at full brightness in Option 1 (Parking Mode). --> Same HiBeam Flap issue occurs (verified by toggling e-brake), which is why it is especially apparent when you toggle from Option 1 to Option 2. The light turns on faster than the DRL Resistor relay can turn off the flap, which is why the HiBeam blips.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bach415
Thinking back about what you said regarding the HiBeamGND power, I am wondering if it's because that DRL live wire is also connected to the parking 12V wire. As we know both know, the HiBeam 12V/GND is used for DRL on the base headlight. When you switch from the DRL to parking/low beam, the ECU cuts power to the HiBeam 12V/GND and possibly turns on the relay to make the HiBeam work when engaged during parking/low beam. Maybe after switching from DRL to parking/low beam, the parking mode provides power to the led strip and maybe to the tapped DRL live wire as well. If the DRL live wire does not ground the power fast enough, maybe that small boost in power to the from the parking 12V to the tapped DRL live wire is enough to power on the actuator, hence causing it to flicker when going from DRL to parking/low beam.
Since this is a theory, I would maybe try this to confirm it (assuming I am correct about the issue). Unplug/unpin the parking 12V wire from both the headlights (assuming that you tapped the DRL live wire on the headlight side). Switch from DRL to parking mode/low beam (you should not have the LED strip during parking/low beam). If the high beams does not actuate, then we may have found the culprit. Also, if you had tapped the non headlight side for the DRL live wire, then it should cause the high beam problem to happen again, which also helps us find the culprit of it being the wire tapped into the parking 12V.
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I want to state that
it is generally agreed that the resistor must be uninstalled to avoid toggling HiBeam flap during Option 0. I think this is still accurate, so I will proceed without completing the circuit through resistor ground.
Summary of FRS Base-model power modes:
- Option 0: (Day): Parking Power (De-energized)
- Option 0/1 (Day/Parking): HiBeam Power (Always Energized) | LowBeam Power (De-energized) | DRL Relay (series with Resistor) | HiBeam Function (Switch DRL Relay to resistor bypass, Momentary Energize LowBeam)
- Option 1/2 (Parking/Night): Parking Power (Energized)
- Option 2 (Night): HiBeam Power (De-energized) | LowBeam Power (Always Energized) | DRL Relay (Always resistor bypass) | HiBeam Function (Momentary Energize HiBeam)
I don't believe Parking Power is causing the issue, but I will probe the car as you have suggested when I have a chance to get under it next.
Note that USDM headlights (Halogen and Monogram/RS/10S) do not even utilize Parking power. It goes to an empty pin and the circuit is never completed. (This is assuming that it isn't switched/relayed upstream). I have plugged the LED Bar into Parking Power (with no resistor), and the HiBeam flap issue does not occur. Furthermore, I would presume, unless the LED LOW and LED HIGH circuits are fully isolated and relayed internally in the JDM/EURO headlights, that the HiBeam Flap issue might occur as well on FRS Base models.
I think the car still uses HiBeam to power the DRL circuit in Option 1, providing dimmed halogen DRL on the stock lights. Whenever you pull on the light stalk for actual HiBeam for Option 0 or 1, the car simply flips the DRL relay to bypass the resistor. If you look in the engine fusebox and pull the DRL relay, you'll notice it's a 5-pin Changeover Relay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bach415
Possible solution if above is the actual problem (could also be a test), is to unpin the white LED wire from the headlight and have it connected to another constant 12V source and hopefully it does not trigger the high beam actuator. Or have a diode on the drl live wire to flow one way and see if that fixes the problem.
Edit: Also looking at the wiring diagrams, monogram headlights get the power to the DRL differently (not from the high beams like the base FRS). The relay stops the power from flowing into the DRL when going into parking/low beam but if you use the always on module, it looks like it takes the power from the parking 12V and redirects it to the DRL as well.
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Yes this is what I'm leaning toward. Unfortunately, as you have noticed, it may be a functional difference in power relaying between the base and Monogram models. As a work-around, I'm thinking of jumping the HiBeam power with a diode upstream of the headlight and not tapping into the Resistor (I have an always-on module I would like to include, which necessitates the diode). This would mean the HiBeam Circuit wouldn't be completed with LED Bar. Also implies that LED Bar will come on when I toggle the HiBeam on any mode
