Quote:
Originally Posted by Bach415
I understand your problem, just trying to narrow down and make sure everything is plugged in correctly and tapped correctly. I usually like to confirm that everything is where it supposed to be before thinking of other possible problems that can cause it.
Which wire did you tapped into the DRL resistor? It should be the 12V+ DRL resistor wire that needs to be tapped (green wire I believe). If you tapped into the HiBeam GND near the DRL location, it might be the reason why it also causes the actuator to go off. Also make sure that the actual resistor is unplugged.
Another thing you can try is to untap that DRL live wire and make sure parking mode (beams & led strips off, side markers tail lights on) work properly as well low/high beam working properly. If so, then I would try connecting the DRL live wire to the fuse box (there should be a 12V connection in there but I am not sure. I've read about people tapping in there for other sources) and see if everything else still functions properly.
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Yes, its on the DRL live (Green) and there is no resistor.
Again, the problem I'm trying to confirm is whether the DRL Live gets its power from HiBeam GND. I have probed continuity between HiBeam GND to DRL Live and confirmed that when you unplug HiBeam GND, then the DRL stops working. Unless something is wrong with my wiring (which I doubt since all functions are working properly including DRL daytime power, with exception to the HiBeam Flap), there may be an incorrect presumption that the DRL splice really works as intended (to isolate High Beam from DRL)
Are you speaking from experience or quoting the guides?
- If you have the lights on the car yourself, have you tried toggling quickly from Parking to Low Beam mode? You can see the unblocked beam momentarily (raised flap - HiBeam enabled), then the flap deactivates (return to low beam) because the relay is getting switched from DRL to Night Mode.