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rice_classic · 03-25-2019, 02:05 AM

Going back to the front of the car..

The Hotchkis strut tower brace wasn't copacetic with my raceseng cascam mounts so I had to get creative in my bolt-bin. The bolt wasn't long enough to accommodate the cascam plate and the strut bar so needed something longer. Here how much pass-through existed without the strut bar in place.

IMG_0517 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

Here's the Cascam ones on the left (silver bits) and the alternates I had to choose from.

IMG_0516 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

First was the long black one in the raceseng washer...

IMG_0514 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

It protruded too far so I had to go for a shorter one with it's own washer. The reason for finding the right one was to A) make sure enough threads were engaged and B) so the upper spring perch wouldn't touch the bolt once I slide everything over for the camber adjustment.

It's less "pretty" but the problem was solved.

IMG_0529 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
That strut bar gave me something to tie my Innovate AFR sensor to as well, although I will probably relocate that attachment point.

But now I get to move onto one of my favorite bits... the Stereo Delete for the gauges and kill switch.

First and foremost I needed to figure out a way to kill the car and I was happy to find a very simply/safe solution. The 80amp fused wire off the positive terminal feeds a discrete block of fuses in the main block including fuel pump and ignition. Kill that - car dies. It works brilliantly. The rules don't require me to install this, but I won't only be racing with SCCA - I also race with ICSCC and they require these...

EZUO3583 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
Now for the gauges...

IMG_0507 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

IMG_0509 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

IMG_0534 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

03-25-2019, 02:05 AM	#50
rice_classic Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Nevermorange FRS Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 4,174 Thanks: 757 Thanked 4,208 Times in 1,808 Posts Mentioned: 78 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	...continued Going back to the front of the car.. The Hotchkis strut tower brace wasn't copacetic with my raceseng cascam mounts so I had to get creative in my bolt-bin. The bolt wasn't long enough to accommodate the cascam plate and the strut bar so needed something longer. Here how much pass-through existed without the strut bar in place. IMG_0517 by Rice Classic, on Flickr Here's the Cascam ones on the left (silver bits) and the alternates I had to choose from. IMG_0516 by Rice Classic, on Flickr First was the long black one in the raceseng washer... IMG_0514 by Rice Classic, on Flickr It protruded too far so I had to go for a shorter one with it's own washer. The reason for finding the right one was to A) make sure enough threads were engaged and B) so the upper spring perch wouldn't touch the bolt once I slide everything over for the camber adjustment. It's less "pretty" but the problem was solved. IMG_0529 by Rice Classic, on Flickr That strut bar gave me something to tie my Innovate AFR sensor to as well, although I will probably relocate that attachment point. But now I get to move onto one of my favorite bits... the Stereo Delete for the gauges and kill switch. First and foremost I needed to figure out a way to kill the car and I was happy to find a very simply/safe solution. The 80amp fused wire off the positive terminal feeds a discrete block of fuses in the main block including fuel pump and ignition. Kill that - car dies. It works brilliantly. The rules don't require me to install this, but I won't only be racing with SCCA - I also race with ICSCC and they require these... EZUO3583 by Rice Classic, on Flickr Now for the gauges... IMG_0507 by Rice Classic, on Flickr IMG_0509 by Rice Classic, on Flickr IMG_0534 by Rice Classic, on Flickr __________________ SCCA T4 - FRS