Quote:
Originally Posted by wparsons
If that's a true statement, I'd suggest thinking long and hard about the swap in general. IMO, spend the money once vs twice, it costs less in the end.
What's your goal with the swap? Power output, usage, etc. If you're really only after ~400whp, why are you doing a 2J swap? I assume you've considered that the car will never pass CA smog after the swap too, right?
I'd suggest reading up on what works and what doesn't for brakes. Slotted roters (or drilled ones) don't do anything to decrease stopping distances. Skip the brake lines, they won't shorten stopping distances either.
Better pads, higher temp fluid, done. If you're not tracking it, you really don't need to overthink this.
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Unfortunately, most people do builds in stages instead of all at once unless they have deep pockets. It is less efficient, but it also allows them to enjoy the car while they save for the next stage. It also may be just as inefficient to do a single conversion now if the turbo and wastegate he chooses is sized to the engine's and car's current capabilities, but won't have the size for future power goals when he finally has the money to upgrade the rear end, as an example.
Also, he
isn't in Layfayette CA. He is in Layfayette LA, ie, Louisiana.
Most rotors come slotted or drilled for more bite/grab on the lead edge of the pad, which I believe he mentioned. Whether that adds to better feel or engagement versus stopping distance is not worth a debate here. Same with stainless steel lines versus OEM. Some feel better oil helps with feel too, even if they never plan to get it hot enough to warrant performance oil aka high temp fluid. Pads are probably enough for the street and canyons for better engagement/grab and reduction in brake fade/wear. Regardless, it is clear he can save a few grand on not buying a BBK if he isn't tracking the car.