BTW, forged wheels certainly are not the final solution for uber strong wheels that will never get damaged. Nor they give lot of extra performance. They just tend to be around same strength as similar cast wheel of +20-25% heavier, or of same strength but by similar extent lighter. Otherwise no magic or braking physic laws or magic unobtanium material of fairytale strength. As in, imho OE cast wheels of 9.1kg may aswell be as strong if not stronger as those listed in OP forged wheels of ~ 6.2-6.5kg weight. And just +5whp from aftermarket air filter may more then compensate slightly more rotational inertia of reasonably heavier wheels.
Forged wheels might be of choice for two cases, - when one can afford and want no compromise best, even if very expensive and just slightly better, and in competitive motorsports, where every possible extra slight advantage bit may count, where even -0.2s less laptime matters and may separate victor from one lost.
In most other cases with reasonable budget and aim to get most performance per buck, good quality cast wheel should be more then sufficient to get looks, slight performance or slight strength increase. Main bit that should matter - to choose wheels that are
strong enough(rest might be redundant for use waste), and then choose by looks/weight/cost from that. For example - wheels like Enkei RPRF1 might do ok. Good compromise of strength/looks/weight/cost. But something like Kosei K4R - lacks main bit. With it's weight like that of most good forged wheels, these are lacking in strength and are overlightened TOO much, easy to damage/bend both on bad daily driven roads and on track.
My own choice is other - forged wheels bought anew imho simply are wasted money with too little to gain for insane sum spent that would net much more spent elsewhere .. so i simply went for used forged wheels set
. If whole set of four forged wheels costs me cost of one new wheel price, then forged ones seem considerable alternative to new cast wheels.