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Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17
I did sti mount and ace header. Both 02 sensors are in header and will need swapping over. Although like supertom mentioned at 70k miles and salty winters you might as well get fresh new 02s.
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Yeah, new O2 sensors is pretty much what I was thinking. Can someone confirm for me if these are the correct part numbers? I never even realized they were different until just now.
https://parts.theautobarnsubaru.com/...2641AA640.html
https://parts.theautobarnsubaru.com/...2690AB000.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17
Header / overpipe is pretty straight forward although easier and more wiggle room with engine slightly lifted. So perfect time to do mounts. Only thing I did (not sure if necessary but I took off the intake box before jacking engine up to do mounts). Was able to jack engine up enough to get mounts out no problem.
Stock mounts are really soft engine rocks a lot even new. So definitely a good idea to swap. STI mounts are perfect for a DD I didn’t notice any NVH at all.
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I hear people say they jack their engine from the oil pan with a block of wood, but the ACE instructions linked to further below say to only jack the engine on the cast aluminum sections. Any advice here?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17
Also don’t forget to hammer down the skid plate there is a “bubble” on the plate right under header. It looks like a good 1/4” clearance but under load when engine rocks it will rub and you will hear it.
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I'll keep an eye out for that, thanks!
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Originally Posted by Doozer
Official ACE installation guide
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Thank you! I couldn't find that anywhere on the CSG site (maybe I'm blind) so I wasn't sure if it would come with any or what. This makes me feel a lot better.
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Originally Posted by Ultramaroon
+1 on getting replacement sensors up front. I don't know about subsequent years but the early ones were way over-torqued, at least the couple that I've removed. Threads were mangled.
Might be better to just leave the originals with the factory header in case you need to go back to stock.
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Yeah, pretty much my thoughts as well. Can you confirm if the part numbers I posted above are correct?
Quote:
Originally Posted by H1C
I found that the header-to-engine nuts vibrate loose over time, even after torque-ing them a second time after a few days' driving after initial installation. I installed Nord-lock locking washers and haven't had the problem since.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VAW3AC
When I reinstalled OEM front LCAs and tie-rod ends to get legal for STX, I used the M12 sized Nord-locks instead of the cotter pins for the castle nuts. They've held up great there too. |
Hmm. This is interesting. I may pick those up as well and use them on the install. Makes sense to me! Thanks for the link!