JUNE 2021 UPDATE: BUILD LIST
It was time to put everything in 1 place.
SAFETY: - Cage
- Window net
- Window net kit
- Fire Extinguisher w/ quick release mount
- Kill Switch
- Seat - Recaro
- Belts - GFORCE (schroth replicas) 2" HANS 6pt pull up
- Wheel/Hub/Release - NRG Wheel with NRG adapter and Quick release
- Seat mount/slider - Buddy Club low profile mount, sparco slider
- Tow straps - Sabelt on Amazon
- Tug shafts for tow straps - Raceseng. If I had to again I would probably get the Tug Strap which wasn't around when I built this: https://raceseng.com/tug-strap-model-specific#
SUSPENSION/BRAKES- Eibach kit - per rules
- Shocks - MCS w/ Custom perches (From Dynasty), Bilstein B8s/B14s are great too - will need custom perches for B14s. If you're wealthy you can always get the $7000 Penskes.
- Rear Top hats - Not needed for Bilstein, 1" or 2" top hats from Raceseng with MCS.
- Camber Plates - Raceseng CASCAM + lower crash bolt
- SPC 67660
- SPC 67655
- Enkei RPFI and Motegi Traklite
- Spacers - 15mm w/ RPF1 and 20mm w/ Motegi
- Studs - ARP
- Brake duct - Verus or ARP kits are fine. I did a custom 5" intake duct behind front grill.
- Brake Pads - Raybestos ST47 Front, ST43 rear. May try G-LOC, seem to perform equally but have contingency
- Rotors - Centric Premium, Duralast Gold (high carbon) Napa high carbon
- Fluid - Diff: 75w-90 syn, Trans: Pennzoil synchromesh, Engine: 0w-40 or 10w-30High Mileage (zinc), Amsoil or Swepco grease in Axles. ATE Type 200 brake fluid
- Tires - Hoosier A7/R7 225/40/17
- Air filter - K&N
- Strut Tower Brace - Switch back to stock braces.
- Diff cover - Greddy
- Sway bar end links: RacerX Fabrication
- Stock Clutch (which is exedy) but I think the Stage 1 Exedy is now legal per the rules.
OTHER: - A/C Delete
- Oil Cooler - Jackson Racing
- OEM header Cat removal - Local fabricator
- Gauges/senders - Oil pressure/temp. I no longer use the AFR gauge, not necessary.
- Fumoto valve
- Exhaust/overpipe/frontpipe - JDL 3" over/front pipe combo with 2.5" flange to work with stock manifold and 3" rear flange to work with Greddy RS 3" catback exhaust.
- ECUTek license, cable/tune
- Aim SOLO 2 DL
- Wheel Bearings/Hubs - Centric or SKF. Switching away from Timken because China.
- Custom made Cool shirt box
- 17mm head steel lug nuts
- 55mm Restrictor Plate
- GeraldJust TracBOX w/ custom pushbutton for pedal dance.
- Lead bar for ballast weight - I have since removed the spare tire and tow hitch
- Pedal spacer to adjust gas pedal for better heel-toe and pedal covers.
- Heat Shielding - OEM manifold shields, header wrap on collector part of manifold, Over pipe and most of frontpipe and heat shields on exhaust where it passes by the diff/CV joint. Without managing the Exhaust heat you will experience shorter life in: Coil pack, Trans fluid, Diff fluid and CV joint. Shielding dramatically improves the service interval of all these things.
GENERAL SETUP: - Lowered about 1.5" - corner balanced
- Front Toe zero, Front Camber -3.5*
- Rear toe zero, rear camber -3.0
- Flip front pads on the rotor every couple sessions, flip rears on rotor every couple weekends. This counters the tapering.
ORIGINAL POST:
After 15 years of w2w racing I learned something about myself... I like racing more than wrenching so it's time to build a car for a class that doesn't require metric tones of cash and time to play in. That's SCCAs Touring-4
Relatively affordable entry price, relatively low operational expense.
T4 is great because I don't have to touch the engine, transmission, clutch or differential. It's just safety, suspension, cooling, chassis setup, tune, tires and brakes. No fancy shop here, no sponsors and it's all done in my garage with only some exception (like the cage). I will even be doing paint in my garage.
My goal is to take my current FRS to make it fully race ready for <$15k. I like to spoil myself so this may be difficult but here it goes.
Out with the old and in with the new:
IMG_0081 by
Rice Classic, on Flickr
Due to the rules that specs the suspension (eibach prokit and non adj shocks) and an exhaust that exits in the stock location - you can easily build a race car with off the shelf parts.
IMG_0084 by
Rice Classic, on Flickr
IMG_0088 by
Rice Classic, on Flickr
IMG_0093 by
Rice Classic, on Flickr
While putting the exhaust on the nut seized on the bolt for the exhaust flange..
IMG_0094 by
Rice Classic, on Flickr
Improvise, adapt, overcome - use one from my many Honda parts bin with a couple washers to mirror the dimensions.. Voila!
IMG_0095 by
Rice Classic, on Flickr
Now that parts starting showing up it was time to gut the car. Of course of course.. the VERY first bolt I touch (seat bolt) is stuck and bugger up the head forcing me to get out a cutting wheel, chisel, hammer etc etc.
But it came out..
IMG_0136 by
Rice Classic, on Flickr
The rest of the interior was pretty straight forward, however I did have to watch a couple YouTube videos.
IMG_0143 by
Rice Classic, on Flickr
I am gonna miss this stereo - I just worked. In a world of "smart everything" I loved the simplicity and functionality of it. I'm pretty sure there's a mystery CD in it for whomever wants this ol' relic.
IMG_0210 by
Rice Classic, on Flickr
Next step - Roll Cage.
To be continued...