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Camberbolts are relatively cheap. Dialing most camber at lower mount, and what's left, at camberplates, is better for suspension geometry. Also if adjusting from below lifted car both toe & camber, it's often easier to access with wrenches camberbolts & toe adjustment from below of car, instead of dropping car, adjusting in steps camberplates, then lifting car back up and checking result (or crawling up oneself to access camberplates on lifted on rig car), then repeating many times, as changing toe can change camber and vice versa.
So in general i see no reasons to not get camberbolts too. As camberplates are bought, imho budget is not THAT low to save on not getting them. And imho simpler to adjust alignment using camberbolts when doing normal complete alignment on alignment rig, and adjust at camberplates only for some on-site adjustments when eg. on track, according to track/tires/weather specific.
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