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H1C · 12-12-2018, 11:59 PM

I tackled this job about six weeks ago. Thank you so much to the OP and to everyone who shared tips from their experience doing this job -- they were all very helpful.

I have to say that this job is not something I would want to do again. I have an auto-x buddy who's a Toyota tech who offered to do it for me for very cheap at his dealership, but he couldn't fit me in to his schedule right away, and my TOB was squealing so loudly that it seemed like it could go at any moment, so I decided to do it myself over a weekend.

Here are some things I learned while doing this job:

-- If you're going to support the engine at the oil pan, use a block of wood or something that spans the whole pan to distribute the load -- and not, say, a hockey puck on your jack pad -- otherwise you'll wind up putting a dent in your oil pan like I did to mine

. Being OCD, I wound up replacing the oil pan, and that was almost as much of a pain as pulling the transmission. Toyota FIPG is a bitch to cut through.
-- If you replace your clutch disc with an OEM one, you'll need to get an alignment tool. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/ACT-AT90-Clut...dp/B0058IEEEC/
-- You really have to carefully center the clutch disc, crouching up in the transmission tunnel to look at it square on. Otherwise the transmission will not slide back on.
-- Even doing that, and playing with the engine and trans angles with the jack under the engine and a tilting transmission jack, I had to torque the trans bolts to get it to slide back on the final couple of inches.
-- Toyota and Subaru really cheaped out on the original TOB. With 40,000 miles, my clutch disc had hardly any wear, and there was hardly any dust in the bell housing when I opened it up. The TOB, on the other hand, was completely dried out, crunchy, and was seizing a bit on the input shaft sleeve. I think the dried out TOB's sliding on the input shaft sleeve was the cause of the clutch honking noise I've had since the car had only a couple of thousand miles on it.
-- I followed Verus Eric and used Sil-glyde to lubricate the new TOB and clutch fork contact points: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Zy4latxiIw[/ame]

-- That rubber boot: I spent about 15 minutes trying to stretch it over the linkage to get at the cotter pin and then gave up. I don't think the body of the boot serves much of a purpose, as its horizontal opening isn't tightly sealed at all. I left the top of it intact, as that seemed to be pressed up into where the linkage comes down out of the interior, presumably to seal moisture out of the interior of the shifter console.

I have my doubts about the updated TOB part too. I used the updated Toyota part number from the 2017 TSB. It was buttery smooth and completely silent for the first couple of weeks, but now I can hear it whirring when the clutch is engaged, and the pedal action has become very slightly 'grainy' already, like I can feel the bearings inside the TOB. When my original TOB started going bad, the pedal action was noticeably crunchy or grainy feeling.

Those of you who've had the new TOB for a while, how's it holding up?

12-12-2018, 11:59 PM	#158
H1C Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Drives: 2014 FR-S MT Location: metro-Atlanta area Posts: 126 Thanks: 131 Thanked 80 Times in 48 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I tackled this job about six weeks ago. Thank you so much to the OP and to everyone who shared tips from their experience doing this job -- they were all very helpful. I have to say that this job is not something I would want to do again. I have an auto-x buddy who's a Toyota tech who offered to do it for me for very cheap at his dealership, but he couldn't fit me in to his schedule right away, and my TOB was squealing so loudly that it seemed like it could go at any moment, so I decided to do it myself over a weekend. Here are some things I learned while doing this job: -- If you're going to support the engine at the oil pan, use a block of wood or something that spans the whole pan to distribute the load -- and not, say, a hockey puck on your jack pad -- otherwise you'll wind up putting a dent in your oil pan like I did to mine . Being OCD, I wound up replacing the oil pan, and that was almost as much of a pain as pulling the transmission. Toyota FIPG is a bitch to cut through. -- If you replace your clutch disc with an OEM one, you'll need to get an alignment tool. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/ACT-AT90-Clut...dp/B0058IEEEC/ -- You really have to carefully center the clutch disc, crouching up in the transmission tunnel to look at it square on. Otherwise the transmission will not slide back on. -- Even doing that, and playing with the engine and trans angles with the jack under the engine and a tilting transmission jack, I had to torque the trans bolts to get it to slide back on the final couple of inches. -- Toyota and Subaru really cheaped out on the original TOB. With 40,000 miles, my clutch disc had hardly any wear, and there was hardly any dust in the bell housing when I opened it up. The TOB, on the other hand, was completely dried out, crunchy, and was seizing a bit on the input shaft sleeve. I think the dried out TOB's sliding on the input shaft sleeve was the cause of the clutch honking noise I've had since the car had only a couple of thousand miles on it. -- I followed Verus Eric and used Sil-glyde to lubricate the new TOB and clutch fork contact points: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Zy4latxiIw[/ame] -- That rubber boot: I spent about 15 minutes trying to stretch it over the linkage to get at the cotter pin and then gave up. I don't think the body of the boot serves much of a purpose, as its horizontal opening isn't tightly sealed at all. I left the top of it intact, as that seemed to be pressed up into where the linkage comes down out of the interior, presumably to seal moisture out of the interior of the shifter console. I have my doubts about the updated TOB part too. I used the updated Toyota part number from the 2017 TSB. It was buttery smooth and completely silent for the first couple of weeks, but now I can hear it whirring when the clutch is engaged, and the pedal action has become very slightly 'grainy' already, like I can feel the bearings inside the TOB. When my original TOB started going bad, the pedal action was noticeably crunchy or grainy feeling. Those of you who've had the new TOB for a while, how's it holding up?